Ouarzazate is an ideal place to prepare for the desert tour. An oil change is due and also the air filter needs to be cleaned urgently. In addition, the city offers enough variety to sustain it here a few days. From the campsite to the old Ksar (fortified Lehmdorf) that is still inhabited, it is only two kilometers by bike is the distance traveled fast. At first we felt a little queasy in the narrow streets and not just luxury housing, but the people are friendly to the curious tourists.
After that our first really big Kasbah (family / residence of a prince) on the program. The Kasbah Taourirt, once residence of Pasha of Marrakesh gave his whole tribe accommodation and is nested inside unbelievable.
We do without a guide stroll up and down stairs and through the complex. Particularly impressive are the beautiful wood ceiling, but how do we get out of here? No matter which way we run, everything is so twisty that we always end up in a room with no exit. Only after repeated questions, we are finally at the output. Uff, now we know why you offer tours here.
Opposite Ensemble Artisanal, a carpet cooperative and we want to inform us blooooooß times. Now we know the approximate prices of the carpets. The benefit to us much, because what we have bought everything, not much in common with carpets. As soon as it is Hammelfest and the traders have ... .......... We also can not carry it by bike is not a problem, they put us in the evening to the campsite. You all here with a camper? Hello, we have a sign on your forehead? Here they call Bernd always Ali Baba, but the dealers are the 40 thieves.
When we are free again, Bernd can just make an evening mood of the plant.
In the center, the large Place de Mouahidine, there are simple restaurants, a souq and juice bars on every corner. We lack nothing, but so slowly lures the desert.
We drive through the Draâ, where the Oued Draa always receives oases alive. We also get strong again in the height up to 1,700 meters. The roads are winding, but is quite well, only the crazy taxi driver to overtake the principle before blind turns and oncoming traffic can drive a blood pressure quite beautiful in the air.
In Agdz we are on the so-called Ouarzazate . Unfortunately, many are left to decay. It simply lacks the money to get these wonderful buildings and also the Moroccans now living in concrete buildings also prefer. In Zagora we are at the campsite Oasis Palmier first by a camel and then by the owner welcomed with a pot of tea.
We are under palm trees and we like it so much that we decided a few days here to stay.
do with the bikes we excursions in the area and finally we see a caravan. The leader is determined to cash in my bike against two dromedaries. What are we going in the camper with camels? We should do it in the fridge! Oh how mean!
It is a wise decision in Zagora to spend a little time. Right now is the fact Aid al-Kabir (the Feast of Sacrifice, popularly called Hammelfest). It commemorates the sacrifice of not accomplished Ismail (Isaac) by his father Ibrahim (Abraham). The festival lasts four days and is celebrated in the rest of the entire Arab world. It may be slaughtered only male animals (sheep, camel or cattle). 2 / 3 of meat for the poor and only 1 / 3 to keep the families of its own. The price of a sheep is for some families more than a month income, and certainly not all can afford it. There must also meet ever a chicken. There are the family members from all over home. What we have noticed in the rest of the way already, because People from all buses rose with boxes and suitcases packed into the tiny villages and were taken from their relatives and friends welcome. Cars with English and French flag, but apparently Moroccan prisoners (women wear head scarves) were unusually often seen on the streets. At the campsite we were told: What is Christmas to you that for us is the sheep festival. As a tourist you can see from the festival itself very much because it is purely a family party. However, everything is closed, even the restaurants and shopping, we can certainly nothing. Only a handful of souvenir shops are open by the hour. The place looks deserted and only some children to join us on our bike ride through the center. Then we still find an open restaurant. We are the only guests and thus have the ambience of Chez Ali all to ourselves alone.
Twice we were standing at the door of the women's hairdresser, but was because the festival always closed. Today, a local resident pity on me notified and the hairdresser. Especially for me will open the store and after the haircut closed. In retrospect, I think it would have been better, he would be stayed. But hair grows back so (The picture was taken before the haircut and head scarves are known to be fashionable in Morocco).
Today is just times the hotel next to our campsite as a film set and we are barely through the crowd on the street. And that is really a beautiful building and we can well imagine as the residence of a prince.
The Ouarzazate does its name justice and so slow, we get a real wilderness feeling. We go back to the N 8 Tansikht and turn into a side valley of the Oued Draa. It becomes increasingly dry and only now and then eke out a few palm trees and a little scrub her miserable Existence. Goats are probably the only pets that can not survive here. In N'Kob let's look at the old town with fewer than 45 more or less preserved kasbah. The Kasbah Baha has been completely renovated since once again turned into a hotel and, although because of the drought, agriculture is nearly broke, the hotel has a pool of course. We must on the roof and can look around in the hotel room. There are currently no obvious guests.
Shortly before Alnif we have to eat in a restaurant in this beautiful desert views.
Although the landscape is not possible to live it is still somehow fascinating.
There are numerous roadside stalls where you can buy fossils. The area here is famous. We park and Bernd sets off with a hammer in the area. However, the "fossils crops" not so simple. He finds quite a lot, but not enough to beat out his tools to her from the rocks. He must be content with containing photos.
For today we pass the only place Rissani direction Merzouga , for there lies the Erg Chebbi, the largest sand dune area Morocco, with its high elevations up to 200 meters.
We found a parking space at restaurant Kasbah Mohayut , directly behind a wall next to the dune. Only a short walk into the area and we have Sahara feeling.
Just today the moon is full and so we see a beautiful sunset and the moon are due to be a good view of a small caravan. Probably there are tourists who stay then in a Berber camp. These tours are offered here in heaps. Walking the sand is very difficult and suddenly Nichtdromedare Bernd stabbing pain in both knees. We must return to the camper and all in slow motion.
The planned for today vast desert hike can we fail with a heavy heart and drive back to Rissani, a tourist destination in the Tafilalet (in earlier times, the province is an important caravan - and commercial center). Two kilometers from the city stands the mausoleum of Mulay Ali Sheriff Alawites from the dynasty and the 19th Grandfather of the current King Mohammed VI.
equal, we take a guide, so that we again have the opportunity to see a little more from the interior of the mausoleum and may even connect with one foot on the threshold of the mosque. Photography is, however, also allows us infidels.
Splendid is decorated everything, especially the doors and windows to impress us.
Rissani founded on the ruins of Sijilmassa , the former capital, and to equate in their time with Fez and Marrakech. However, except for a few miserable remnants could not be found of the former splendor. Our guide shows us with pride to the history of a few crumbling Lehmbrock as if they were to offer the most precious of what the city. Then he takes us into the next door at Ksar.
Quite frankly, without the leader because we had dared not enter. The corridors are dark and some stock so low, Bernd comes to crouch through. We feel our progress on the walls. Only when we arrive at a place and falls into the light from above, we can see the floor structure. Dattelpalmenholz in quite dire condition.
Here live mainly widows and their children (come on a woman usually up to 5 children). Guide housing conditions such as picturesque, if also describe sparingly. Our guide tells us that live here in the 84 women and 500 children and that they are happy to be here, because most have little or no income and so at least a roof over their heads. He knows many of the children by name and has left for her kind words. He asks us to give the children any gifts, so they are not brought up to beg. King Mohammed VI paid to poor families for the children they send to school a little money and that was the right Way in the future. Since we can not agree more.
Somehow we are then happy when we come back from a goal into the open. By the way, the inputs and paths so low and so are nested, so that enemy attackers do not ride their horses in the Ksar into the leaders were able to know at last to report yet.
Rissani Since Sunday is market day and we in the last few days in all the desert communities could hardly buy anything, yet we jump into the colorful crowd. We have the impression that almost all residents of the village are the go here. Rely heavily laden with fruit and vegetables we the action. In a courtyard on the market area, we still see a bicycle repair shop. Here is built from 3 Scrap bikes a functioning bicycle. No wonder that people are always so enthusiastic about our bikes.
We leave the city by the richly decorated archway, which under King Hassan II (father of Mohammed VI) in memory has been erected on the dynasty.
Erfoud, the current capital of Tafilalt is faceless and uninteresting. Here there is nothing to see out of barracks, and even the food in the restaurant was the worst, that we had on the whole trip. Suddenly the Oued Ziz is back and with it the oases. What a treat for the eyes. Even as tourists we are now finally realize what the havens for the people mean here. Although we have not gone far, we remain today, right here in this oasis in the Camping Tissirt . We get a Welcome tea and learn about the tasty version of mint and verbena. The young assistant Mohammed brings me a few words in Arabic and when I practice with German sentences him. Finally I can such important words such as: hello, how are you, goodbye, thank you, from no and hau.
Errachidia Just before we reach the place Meski and beautifully situated campsite at the Source Bleue de Meski . According WoMo leaders here, however, one suffers much from the intrusiveness of the dealers and hordes of begging children. We are lucky, Mohammed (let that come here when times other first names), a young, self-appointed usher keeps us all from the neck and brings us even a large mat for our input, so we do not carry so much dust into the camper. In the afternoon, but he let the cat out of the bag and invites us to tea in the shop of his father. A small kilim us now serves as a strainer in the hall. He makes really nice and the old mat was no longer really nice. In the morning, Mohammed brings us bread that has baked his mother. He wants no money for it and we are invited to an afternoon tea with his father. We reject with thanks, the teas are expensive to us in the long run.
between us and the ruins of the Kasbah is a valley and a river. That would be a nice walk there. Mohammed would like to accompany us, but Bernard still has problems with his knees and as we look at the Kasbah rather only from the vantage point.
quick we are Errachidia Soon we reached Goulmima . The city has to offer something very special. The Ksar Goulmima is a UNESCO heritage site, inhabited by 3,000 residents and was restored just a million grants. As soon as we parked at the gate of the Ksar, call the people we already Rachid, a leader in the camper specifically recommended guide. Rachel grew up here, knows the people and therefore we are treated well by all the friendly, because by now the people are the tourists compared to slightly repellent. Rachid studied, but is unemployed, speaks English and it works reasonably well with the understanding. At last we are the difference between a Kasbah and Ksar explained properly. Both consist of many homes and is always surrounded by a wall. In the kasbah but a prince who lived alone with his entire clan (which may well be several hundred people), in Ksar live people of different tribes and it may even Mellah (Jewish quarter) be in it. A Kasbah can operate either in a Ksar, but vice versa is not possible. Even today, the two gates to be closed Ksar in the dark. Then who is not in it just has to stay outside. This is for the safety of the residents. The apartments are usually distributed on three floors. Below is always housed the cattle.
On the Upstairs, there are storage rooms, and if it is very cold there, even the goats and sheep penned up. If many people live in the house, there may also miss a few people to be there. On the second floor are the actual living spaces. For a small tip, we take the opportunity today to take a look at such an apartment. Although thanks to the subsidies, the houses now have electricity connections, we need to grope in the dark, the stairs high. The single light bulb is unfortunately broken. With obvious pride shows us the owner of his living room. Very good you can see the support beams of concrete, which now provide stability in the mud house. This is after the current next important measure was contested by the funding. Now I can no longer hold back and ask for toilet and bathroom? Rachid there can only laugh. But we have seen the stables on the ground floor. The human and animal excrement are loaded into sacks and an ass to be related to the field and are thus the best fertilizer. There are no water connections. I should imagine what happens with a mud house, if there even the bathtub would overflow. Washed in the river will be kept strictly separate and that for men and women. Would that be so definitely settled times.
Now we can still on the roof. We should tread carefully, the mud houses are not the most stable and can not shake well tolerated. In summer, the residents sleep because of the intense heat on the roofs, also strictly separated for men and women (how come here only to the many children?). In this time of year here anything is dried: laundry, dates, and the rest of the meat sheep festival. (Today at noon I eat vegetarian.)
Now we get to use the stone mill says. First, the grain can be ground before the housewife bake the pita bread. This makes early in the morning so that the family Bread to eat. Here was ground henna and we learn once again that nothing ausseht the way it is. Henna is green and only in conjunction with water it turns red or black.
This is the pride of the inhabitants. A water pipe with drinking water. Here everything has to be fetched water that is used for drinking or cooking. Of course, a function of women and girls. Two of them are in the Ksar and thus the five wells within the walls no longer used.
The river water is used as already mentioned, the personal care, and watering the animals than the women for washing clothes. They call me, sit down with the water and to wash a small load so I can see what the women here have to do everything Sun I tell them that I indeed have a washing machine at home, but during the time of the trip, the clothes are usually washed in hand must. Since they have a real joy (which we of course do not need in a river they do not even know).
for the restoration of the Kasbah no money was there and now it may be too late.
Now we go into the garden oasis. There, the residents built all of what they do for life so need, including food for the animals. A few orange and tangerine trees and date palms Mainly, we can see. Dates are very nutritious and part of the daily diet of the people here.
Rachid We are very grateful for his leadership and insights that we have received today. On the way back we pass a few women who hold a chat. They give me about Rachid understand that you liked my skirt, the blouse, the earrings and the necklace would exchange them for their things. Only the shoes that appeal to them not that I could keep. Then asks one of the Berber women but actually, if I my husband wants to exchange it. This is a laugh. Bernd just do not really know what to make of it. Is he now in the Ksar or wants a good wife to the camper? Since we both have to giggle for a long time what. Our other route is already planned, but Rachel recommends us a more interesting variant, which, contrary to the road map is very well accessible for us. He ought to know, after all, he lives here. We rely on him and ride on a lonely stretch along the Oued Gheris and we have to cross several times. While there are no bridges, but the Fords are always concrete and the water level is very high.
Amellago Behind the houses are built right into the rock face, there is little space between the river and road.
Time and again we come to beautiful rock formations over, every now and we see Berber tents and shepherds with herds of goats. Then we get a big fright. We read in the guidebook in 2007 washed away a major bridge and the ford with passenger vehicles can not be driven. But wonder of wonders, the bridge is repaired in the meantime. Also from the dreaded roadblocks (Cairn, sit-ins) by Berber women and children no longer see. In Ait Hani, still at 2000 meters, we finally know for sure that you get all the way, because according to travel guide was the road from the Todhraschlucht of view, only paved up in this place.
In Tamtatouchte (1,800 meters) , at the upper end of the Todhraschlucht we find a nice place for the night at the Auberge Baddou and calm before the children hordes that are immediately plunge us. Again, we are welcomed with tea and dinner to cook for us all alone. Even a gas furnace make extra for us, for it is once again very cold when the warm sun has set.
Although here lined hotel / restaurants and camping together, can still farming run and so the tourism is a good leg, but not the only thanks to the waters of the Oued Todhra .
The Gorges du Todhra can I not just with words. It is just great and not by chance one of the main tourist attractions of Morocco. Normally jostle into the gorge, the cars and even Rotelbusse should have been here already. Because of the late season, we share the gorge with very few visitors and we can all make time in the world. One of my favorite pictures you can see now. The rocky, dry river bed, a few palm trees and other landscape only. More than once a shiver runs through us at the thought of what it will be when the Oued right out of water and everything they get in the way along with it. Every few years come to see them here and then you can build new roads.
Then we reach the bottleneck and you might think now it goes no further. Well, the Ali Baba with us sitting in the camper.
An Open Sesame and we will get through. Because it was so beautiful we stay a few miles beyond the canyon on the Camping Le Soleil and go again the next day in the canyon and back out. Although it is the same ravine, yes, she looks from the other direction again and again new. In a short march we see how small we make up our little man here.
still impressed we look from a hill on Tinerhir . The image engraved in our minds. This makes oasis towns. In the foreground, the green lifeline to the houses already in the desert country and then surreal desert and mountains as far as the eye.
In Boumalne Dades, the market and administrative center of the region, nestled between the slopes of the High Atlas and Djebal Saghro do, we the next swerve away from around the state highway in the to drive Gorges du Dades or above the gorge. In contrast to Todhra the road here that is mostly in the hills near and looking from the top of the gorge. First, even a slight incline with beautiful views of the mountains and old Kasbah.
then climb higher and higher. Again, the views are terrific, but I must confess that I am a canyon as seen from below rather than watching from above into it.
I do not remember that I later on the way back to the abyss with me and I usually prefer to enjoy the view.
Shortly before Msemrir is the most spectacular part of the gorge to the end and we turn around. The Dades out here and water is for washing clothes again genutzt.Wie long the bridge still holds stands firmly in the stars.
On Berbère Restaurant de la Montagne we can stay with the camper and walk from there walk through the same bottleneck. This one is as spectacular as in the Todhra.
The boy makes shoes. What initially looks like crochet is, on closer inspection, a special type with needle and thread work. Although no tourists are far and wide as he would buy something, he is good-humored and patient, show me the technique. Thanks to him I am from a small shoe. The now hangs as a charm in the camper.
from our accommodation, we have wonderful views of the surrounding mountains.
hours on foot and now with the camper through the bottleneck.
We delight once more in the incredible scenery and then come the switchbacks. Always the abyss in mind, I'm just glad we have reached the bottom.
El Kelaa M'Gouna is on 1467 meters height and the Oued Assif M'Goun supplies the Area with water. Therefore, this may seem so incredible that even the middle of the desert country, the rose at home and the place known for the production of rose water and rose oil. Everything here revolves around these products and we shower us with it. On the way to the oasis Skoura we see this nameless stone formation. There is even a staircase leads up and so we've got views from above into the desert country.
We are back in Ouarzazate and because it is already out for lunch, we take the camper once eat directly to the main room to a small restaurant. There we are greeted by a dance group. So that would be really not necessary.
on which we are already known, two camper's camp and were already there when we left for our trip. We will again have a good internet reception and want to make the new blog ready. We happened to see the weather forecast for the next few days and there is announced for the north of Morocco heavy rain and storm. Will we einigeln us here so for 5 days and only then proceed. But as so often on our travels it is always different than we thought. The first day is still on schedule and we will cycle to the other end of town at a very primitive market. Far and wide, are We are the only light-skinned people. However, a few as salamu alêkum and Labas can people smile and we are absolutely undisturbed and unmolested, enjoying the bustle of the market. We never tired of the markets, no matter how many we will visit them also. The night Bernard travels through the camper. Since the Erg Chebbi he torments himself already and the pain is worse from day to day despite high doses of painkillers. We think of war with a heavy heart and decide to cancel our trip. Since we can forecast the weather only a narrow time frame must now all go very fast. Drive over to the Agadir route would mean a few hundred kilometers detour. About Marrakech we need to the Atlas Mountains, where it is tomorrow, 40 liters of rain give the square meters. We rely on the weather report and decide on the Marrakech-route. The sky has been cloudy and really we can use the panorama with the fresh, sugared mountains no longer enjoy.
We go through several mountain passes at 2,200 meters above sea level and look anxiously into the sky. With each storm here the slip spill slopes and the streets. But the beauty of the landscape also distracts us from and we're lucky, no rain in the mountainous region.
The fairytale city of Marrakech we need your left, Bernd pain is too great and a city tour did not come into consideration. We see a roundabout with many Berber camels and flags. Only on the highway is to us then that all five hundred yards on either side and police on the bridges and military police are present. On the opposite lane at each entrance are motorcycle cops and wait for a signal to block the highway. We have the impression that all police officers are stationed here from all over Morocco to the interstate. Long, the guards and we wait and then the car comes with the royal entourage. We can see him not, unfortunately, but at least we have the action the boring drive through the countryside shortened. It's getting dark and we just drive just before Berrechid a rest stop. now comes the rain and with power, and later also uses storm. No man is more to see here, just at the gas station is still burning light. But yes Morocco is a safe country and we console ourselves also with the thought that gangsters go with this foul weather also left the door open. The rain has stopped all night and morning all the land is to the right and left of the highway more or less under water. Casablanca until we come through well. Then, at Moheammedia suddenly sends us the police from the highway from. We do not understand why and get only the information we need to par la côte go further. Like most drivers now, we are disoriented in of the 250,000 inhabitants city. But Bernd place with his nose somehow the coastal road. Then war breaks out. driving in a roundabout everyone like he wants and if need be against the direction of travel. Advancement is only to crash and of course now no one comes forward. We stand and stand. Some drivers try to get over the central reservation onto the opposite lane and then stay stuck in the mud. Some succeed but so is the opposite lane used to continue to run up there as well a car is coming, and then back end for all times. The police see the goings on without doing anything. We still do not know really what is really the reason why. Suddenly one exclaims Bernard: Oh my heavens. As far as we can see the road is flooded and with increasing tendency. The manhole covers are blown out and the water shoots out in fountains. From the side streets, whole mountain streams flowed and the first cars will be on their mind and are simply washed away. Only trucks and large wheel-drive vehicles through. Not go backwards and Bernd says only: Do we have a truck or not? Slowly we drive through the water at the lowest point on that one already Meters high. With a loud bang, the Panel adopted on the right rear, she could no longer withstand the pressure of the water mass. To make matters worse Burro coughs short time and we adhere to the air. A little stuttering but then it goes on and eventually again we have only a few inches of water with the wheels. Over an hour for 8 kilometers, is that even a negative record. We reach a motorway and then have almost to ourselves, because behind us is not usable by another. On the opposite lane, the cars jammed for miles. There are also a lot of camper's underneath. Once again, it is critical to the highway because we not only by water but must also mud. But it's not quite as deep as in Mohammedia and so keeps us also not on.
fact, we reach in the afternoon Tangier. Bernd goes first in the IVECO workshop and can change the air filter. 2 / 3 is the wet that was really short. In the port, the customs formalities are completed in a few minutes. Only on the scanner they have no desire and finished in an hour just four cars. Then, when cars are also scanned, who have come to us is just wild and Bernd times within five minutes we are through, have the certificate that we do not smuggle illegal passengers in the camper out and to the ferry. Even before we left the camper, the tailgate goes up and the ferry casts off. It was perfect timing. According to weather report, we are now in a time window between two storms and we have a really calm voyage. The English customs looks only briefly in the passes and already we can leave the port of Tarifa . Although it is already completely dark, but Tarifa is clear and we find the LIDL car park directly. Other riders, an Irishman is there. It is a stormy night and if we have not been seasick during the crossing, we will do now at rocking in our bunk. Before dawn we take off in rain and storm. My wish that the rain at last to stop time is fulfilled promptly, for in the Sierra Nevada straight we snowstorm. Snow plows and salt spreaders are in use and so it goes slowly but continue anyway. From Alicante , the sun shines from Himmel.Irgendwie that's crazy. 124 km from the N332 OVNI the restaurant we find a place for the night. Achim, the German owner says Bernd intended to be operated in Benidorm here and get the good weather for his recovery. Nice thought, but it is in such a case, surely there is nothing like it to Hause.Tags the frantic drive to Gruissan Plage at Narbonne. report on the local pitch us camper driver from the snow chaos around Lyon. We still have over 1180 km is before us and Bernd so slow on the gums. In fact, the snow from Lyon back to us and yet we are completely ready to clock at 20.30, but managed to have it at home happy. What a contrast: from the desert by flooding in the snow. After all, we have allowed the 12.04.2010 and as such a weather is not exactly the norm.
We still have our trip very much and also a great deal. If it Bernd feeling better, we will take the next target in attack. Let's wait until then from this.
