Jenna Jameson Getting A Message

Colombia, land of contrasts

During the carnival Quito was deserted. Almost all shops and restaurants had closed. As the carnival with Quiteños have nothing to care, it was out of town who could. So we had ample opportunity to plan our further journey. Since Ecuador's coast was not reachable, we have decided on a trip to Colombia.

But first was Ash Wednesday again workshop on the program. Bernd was not satisfied with the repair of the brake. Thus we have once again spent almost a day in the workshop, before the error was finally found.

the late afternoon we drove to head towards Otavalo just to create a few more kilometers. Since we arrived so late in Otavalo, we have the parking space no longer at the first hit, but remain directly to a gas station.
Because of the noise of departing trucks wakes early, we had a quiet drive to Ibarra . Although not exactly a small town with its Ibarra cobblestone streets and green spaces for viewing value. This already starts the mix of indigenous, mestizo and Afro-Ecuadorians, although we are still at an altitude of 2,225 meters.

pretty to look at the Parque la Merced with its church.

The most famous ice cream parlor Ecuador is that of Rosalía Suarez . Here the ice is still touched by hand and consists only of fruit puree and ice chunks, yummy!

The Autoferro goes unfortunately only for tourists and only if there are at least 19 people. The Platoon leader came in person to lure us as guests, but after traveling by train us today was not the point.
From now changing the landscape completely. We leave the height and only drive past sugar cane and banana plantations. Indigenous people live, we see hardly any, here is clearly the descendants of black slaves.
Our destination is Tulcán , an ugly town on the border with Colombia.

There is only one site, the cemetery, with its ornamental garden. But because the bushes are really cut into different shapes.

We would once again the absence of other Opportunities in one of the city adapted, Parqueadero bleak.

The next morning, it is only a short distance to Rumichaca , the border station. Let's see how the day here so expires. From the Ecuadorian border is not a reference to where we need to go. Bernd turning a lap of honor around the building. But what there is money changer. They come stormed to us and show us in anticipation of a transaction, the individual stations, we have to go through. The final deleted, the border has already seen us circling. Leaving the man and camper done.

a little further limit Colombia . The same game. The money changers come and show us the ways. People travel not a problem. For the temporary importation, we need a lot of photocopies. The have to have Bernd first in a shop. Meanwhile, I get a chair and pastries! offered. The premiere is South America. The nice customs officer (tummy and breasts almost free top, with record-breaking high-heeled shoes) goes with us zumWoMo. Drug Control? Food control? No, it takes an imprint on the vehicle type sign and then we can go. Final precipitates, which would always make the nice officer who brought me the bread because he does not want to annoy us even more.

We rejoice, not in the dream we had thought of it as soon to be by the border. Now we have to worry about insurance. Our present is in South America, just not in Colombia. The nice female officer had given us an address in the next town. In Ipiales we first difficulty with the unfamiliar street names for us to Calles and Carreras. We must ask endlessly, until we are in the right place. Since the city is getting closer, we park at the first opportunity Burro in a side street. Now an odyssey begins in the city. No insurance office wants to assure us and then only for a Year. We are sent back and forth. At least in 8 offices, we have auditioned. It refers us to the next bigger city. But ultimately, we found an office that we can not even insure but to call somewhere and we get an address outside. Since we have to take a taxi back and then finally we have an insurance policy in your hands. Bernd gets another reminder for the journey, but one with his camera does not open with him, unless one wants to be rid of.

1 1 / 2 hours took the whole drama. Now we only have one concern. Was the parking Burro sure we could stand there at all and how to find We all again?

all right. The shop owners along the road has cast a view on the camper.

Only out of town. We will not get far. A police station beckons us to the curb. We are innocent and Bernd Continues simple. But the guys are lazy and do not swing down on the motorcycle. At the next intersection, they have us. Nervously we wait for what's coming at us now. Well I have all the papers have at hand. Smiling, the police come to us and we are greeted with a handshake. We are from Germany? Can we even in the Casa Rodante? As we like Colombia? Everything you want to know, just do the papers they do not see. Endless takes the well-meaning greeting. They are proud that we are here and Colombia is a safe country, we should have no fear, they protect us. We like to think if we just finally came on. At some point I get the idea the police know that I barely speak English. Since they are very disappointed, but we can then pull the end.

If this continues, we are no longer in Popayán. We go once again through beautiful landscapes. Colombia is green. Even in the highest altitudes to grow bananas and other fruits partly unknown to us. Near Pasto we drive on volcano Galeras past that is currently active again. But except for a thick cloud of smoke we will not notice much. We would go so much by the mountains, we were previously unaware. We can not at all look surprised enough. Oh yes, and the love police. Three more times do we do with the whole procedure, always friendly, always cheerful and always provided with the best wishes.

Slowly we could not even cheer more for a beautiful backdrop and to expect as we drove in the pitch dark inside after Popayán. Now good advice was teuer.Wohin in the dark? A nice car driver pulled in front of us, to a Parqueadero. The next was indeed a county fair, but mainly end of the ride. Only Bernd had no rest. He absolutely had something about the condition of the trail out the next motion day, because the road was recorded in any of our cards. The police could not help. A policeman went with Bernard to the bus station, there to ask a bus driver on the track. There he was calm, it is the road, half is paved and the rest well, but would be in 4 hours to create it.

Then we are defying the noise, the fair fell into a deep sleep. Fully managed by our first day in Colombia.

If we had known to what may come upon us, we would sure like without it. About 28 kilometers paved road, more or less passable. Now and then a landslide, all perfectly normal. But then, dirt road, steep, deep ruts, mud road, the full program. We also came from the 3.000sendern not get out. Passes over mountain passes were to sail. Slowly we have cursed the driver. For all that we hardly had a look for the really beautiful scenery all around. But we drove through the most beautiful mountain rain forest, which we had ever seen. Then suddenly we moved a cable behind us. Any cable, three meters long, we had demolished us. To date, we do not know what it is. Does everything still on the camper. After 6 1 / 2 hours and 110 kilometers we reached the Kreuzungsort Isnos . Here for the first time a late lunch was announced. From there, another 20 kilometers of asphalt and dirt road and then finally, finally we were in San Agustín . At the Hacienda Gamcelat we have found a beautiful place. In the middle of a meadow, between a young bulls and chickens. We sat on a bench in the sun and were just glad to have taken this route safely behind us. Ends

we have the whole thing in a good restaurant with excellent food. Then the world was back to us in order.

For the next day we then have geschartert a taxi driver. If the can see how he cope with these street fair comes.

Early morning we got the first time brought fresh cow's milk, by the daughter of Haciendabesitzers. Then even our taxi driver was there and begin the tour could.

Around San Agustín people have buried their dead and they honored with magnificent statues. This legacy is Weltkulkturerbe UNESCO and one of the most important archaeological sites in Colombia. About the people we know almost nothing, they were already gone when the Spaniards conquered the country. Only that the sculptures must be from different periods is known with certainty.

addition, the mountain rain forest of the region in itself is incredibly beautiful. All we wanted to see us on a day trip.

deep canyons of the Rio Magdalena has dug.

Here at El Estrecho no one suspects what will one day be a huge flow of the Río Magdalena.

The mountain slopes are covered with flowers of all kinds and colors.

Even the simplest Huts sinking in a sea of flowers.

on the Alto de los Idolos we see the first stone tombs with their guardians

Some of the graves are covered with elaborately shaped stone slabs. Since the graves have been discovered only in recent years, they are mostly from grave robbers and the Spaniards spared. The discovery of gold will be at the Museum of Bogotá see.

Two waterfalls we get to see along the way. Here, the Salto del Mortiño .

seven hours we were with the driver on the road and it was a wise decision. First, we have not found the way, because it was a sign not of course, and second, they were worse than the so-called road here.

evening in the restaurant we met two German, the Columbia have passed through in 6 weeks with the bike. They had our full respect, here in these mountains, they were almost at our age.

The next morning the Parque Arqueológico on our program. A full three hours, we have used for the tour. First by the Bosque de las Estatuas . A labyrinthine jungle path led us from statue to statue. Then again in the actual excavation area, the road led us past a holy place, the Fuente de Lavapatas Ceremonal .

All stones are provided with snakes and other figures. Just one is in the process promote identification of all of this.

The serpent figures go even to the stone troughs. Here too, we know nothing precise about the meaning and significance. It is thought just a place of ritual acts.

Time and again we were distracted by the sight of here like weeds growing orchids.

Then again statues with very different motives. Here's an eagle eating a snake.

This grave is even guarded by several guards

obstetrician or child-eaters, who knows?

After seeing it went further than Pitalito on the Rio Magdalena River.

From a hill we could see well what extent the river had assumed.

are Inwischen we arrived in Neiva . Here we suchenn the branch to Desierto de la Tatacoa our goal today. In the small hamlet Villa Viejo we ask the village policeman for directions. He welcomes us happy and welcomes us in his Desierto. Personally, he jumped onto his moped and takes us from the village to the direct route to the Desierto. We can stay happy there, it is absolutely quiet and safe.

We rub them. Were we not just been in the rain forest? Where does for suddenly the desert landscape from? Once again, we curse our lack of information.

Except us a camper there. Marita and Jörg from Austria. What a joy. Finally back WoMo driver. Although we had believed that were extinct. We get valuable tips for the way ahead so we do not have to return to Neiva and which cards should we buy in Bogotá. The two circles for months around here in the area.

Time and again we are amazed at the diversity of life in a desert. Such a nice fellow, we do not have here suspected.

In the night it rained. We could leave this patented slow. Whenever we are in a desert, it rains. Marita and Jörg come and say goodbye to advise us on the way to go. Because of the rain too insecure without wheel. But what we can to discourage Popayán yet? We want to take it. The way is neither a card nor recorded in the GPS. Somehow we have to keep the direction Natagaima . We even found a small sign on a dirt road. At this junction a large, dead snake lies across the road. If this is such a bad omen? No, snakes bring good luck, dead, too? Slowly leave We, the desert and are back in the middle between pastures. People we barely see, let alone cars. Now and then a donkey cart.

is more time to cross a stream, sometimes more, sometimes less muddy. We would indeed be a way out of practice just once, not to mention quite Burro. What makes us more concern is the question of whether we are still on the right track. No one could ask the man. Suddenly we are faced with the Magdalena river and no bridge for miles around. But the Austrians have promised us. So we moved some point. Confined space and turned back. As we see the tiny, hidden by branches Recalling Potosi. There we must talk. At last we reached a small village. Here we can ask and get confirmed, we are right and there is a bridge too. Why have here in the wilderness, a bridge over such a large river? Then there is a narrow, dark tunnel. Us anything about a tunnel? When we begin to see us through. We are on an old railway line.

It has been built over the tracks just with plates. My heart races. This bridge is safe but does not wait for years. For whom or what they should do this? Bernd think again practical. Railroads are much more difficult as trucks. So the bridge will carry us. Hopefully, your eyes (only the co-driver) and through. Again, a tunnel and it is done. A few kilometers later we reached the main road towards Bogotá again and not a moment too soon. It begins like to pour with rain. Right and left of the road is already all under water. The next few kilometers are the purest water fight. Slowly but surely we are getting back on the air. We have chosen us for our entrance to Bogota, the West entrance to avoid the dangerous south. The traffic is growing furiously, although we still have a few miles to Bogotá. In Mosquera we decide today to call it quits. There are only 20 miles to Bogotá and to the city we have to be fresh. Somehow it will not succeed in finding a place for the night. Everything is already occupied with trucks. Finally, we take the Bomberos (fire) on. First they do not really, but then they have pity on us and leave us in their court. We spend a quiet night, sealed off from the noise of the bustling environment.

the morning, the rain subsided and we in the 7.5 million city Bogotá, which is again at a height of 2,600 meters enter. Bernd and his sense of actually manages to Carrera 30 and takes place in a side-street parking. Appropriately, in front of a small school and the patrol is prepared to take care Burro. We take a taxi and let's get right to the main square.

our city tour we start at the Plaza de Bolivar with Cathedral , Capitol, Palacio de Justicia and City Hall.

There are a few nice colonial houses with beautiful yards, but by and large we find Bogotá quite ugly. Dingy houses, huge roads and lots of traffic.

a pleasure for us is to visit the Boteromuseums. At least since my English class I Botero is a term. Basically, everything is round with him, whether human, animal or fruit

As is sometimes a tell our Negro would have been thick.

course could not miss a visit to the Gold Museum. It should be here even more exhibits than in Lima. were also finds from the graves of San Agustín then we admire.

the vault there was still a spectacle of Lichtefekten and music alternating with complete darkness.

Back to Bogotá streets were once again the main cities unvermeindliche for demonstration and then rain. Now we did nothing here. Only out Zipaquira direction. If this had been easy times. Getting in is not easy to come out, almost impossible. With the help of Bernd Gespühr Garmin and then we have still managed somehow. Unfortunately, just before a toll booth, we were back on the road. In Zipaquira we wanted to see the Salt Cathedral . A well on the World unique attraction. Even at the time of Muiscaindianer was mined in a mine salt. Later in the cavity of a cathedral was built, which has been available since 1995 for the public.

you only have access through the tunnel entrance.

Then you stand in a small side chapel.

This
the nave is 75m long and 18m high, there are two aisles.

After the visit it was time for a place for the night to find. Here it was again a Parqueadero serve.

On our way further north the colonial cities were on our agenda. The first was Tunja, a city with 150,000 inhabitants. Here we have made a small tour of the center and started

as always with the main square, once again called Plaza de Bolivar .

and leave us some impressive views of the beautiful courtyards.

In the Iglesia de Santo Domingo we find the lush Capilla del Rosario.

After another 40 kilometers, we come to the city arising out of dreams: Villa de Leyva . is a national monument since 1954, the whole place a museum. We must Burro middle rumble through the center.

In the stone-paved road 5 km speed limit rule and we wanted to see which creates more here. The huge Plaza Mayor is deserted at noon.

Sorry, this campground right in town and we must be content with the 2 kilometers away.

Thus we come the next morning to our site visit.

The shops are hidden behind nondescript doors.

restaurants serving the cuisines of all countries are housed in cute courtyards.

We run and run. Almost all the streets of the town have to offer more new and beautiful views.

We can take a taxi back to the camper and agree on a short trip to the museum at 16.00 clock El fosil , which is located 6 miles outside the city and around

Built

the petrified fossil Kronosaurus around. This is a 120 million year old marine animal that proves that it must be here once been the ocean floor.

Then we let ourselves in the place get back to enjoy the evening atmosphere.

Slowly it is dark and the Staßenlampen to go.

Manfred, the landlord of the village pub provides us with a good free bread and land hunters, and a Coke from its restaurant. He does not want to believe that tomorrow we go on. All WoMo driver had stayed longer. Some even for months. He was here once on vacation and are now at 9 years. We believe that happy, but we have no more time.

We'll ask you about the navigability of the further distance and then the next morning it goes on.
goes on a small side street it through nice villages with beautiful houses. Poor people do not live here. About Arcabuco and we go to San Gil Barichara , another link in the necklace of the colonial cities.

is the guide: This is the dream city of Hollywood filmmakers. At the Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción we can unexpected fantasy play and imagine how desperados on horseback come into the city. Stayed

we have Girón . This place has a well-preserved colonial city.

have now but we had enough of colonial cities. A long day of driving 570 miles brings us down to the Caribbean coast. All along the line we notice the large contingent of military on. Each street entrance, as many as one lane is guarded. Sign us point out that the military makes us this road safely (the FARC is still so active?). According to guide them to hide in the jungles here.

drive after a night in Santa Marta us directly into the Parque Nacional Tayrona .
is first El Zaino our goal.

At the entrance to welcome the nice Titis . An endemic species of monkey in Colombia.

have a few miles we drive to the parking lot. From now on it will continue only on foot or on horseback.

A way for 45 minutes, steep uphill and downhill through tropical forest scenery brings us to Arrecifes a small village with a restaurant and simplest Accommodation.

go after 20 more minutes along the rugged coastline with picturesque views

we to La Piscina said, quiet beach.

Here are not only sky and sea blue, but the crabs.

now and then our path is blocked.

Such a lizard we previously have not yet seen.

In the rain forest had twinge and it beeps. Finally, we can even a couple of the singers capture the picture.

In Argentina we would have called this animal Mara, here it certainly has a different name.

Back at parking lot, we make ourselves after a brief pause once more to explore on the way to another corner.

We come to the noble Ecolodge, which here may be in the middle of National Park.

Back at WoMo it is us something sinister. All employees are to leave the park and in our corner is no additional tourists. As a precaution, we ask whether we are safe here as well? Of course, we but get a guard for the parking lot. In fact, then an all-night sitting not 10 feet away from us and we can safely go to sleep.

The next day we drive to a different location of the NP. This time we want to Playa Gayraca .