Sunday, November 22, 2009

Flutter Sensation Uppper Left Abdomen

Potosí and the devil

Even if we do not have believed himself almost, Walter has again conjured , our burro is ready and we can finally leave El Alto. Almost three weeks we had the pleasure to know now La Paz learn and are now hanging two weeks behind our schedule her. However, it is a good feeling once again to have a working hand brake. Of the other repairs never mind. High spirits, we drive off in the morning and have just 20 kilometers of the border city of El Alto behind us, as our tire pressure device gives an alarm and immediately after that we do not have more pressure on one of our twin tires. Fittingly, we're on a Winzlingsdorf and help by a Llantería is not far. Who was counting? This time neither of the tire or the rim damage, but the valve has been broken. Well, that Bernd has an inexhaustible fund and half an hour later we are back on road. The Alti Plano given us a boring ride ever in the amount of more or less 4,000 meters. Although we have learned to appreciate the Highlands because of its green landscape, we now feel the effects of the lack of rain. Everything is bone dry and the animals eat away at the last withered stalks. The villages are extremely poor and we see increasing evidence about the work of Plan International, Caritas and UNICEF. In the city of Oruro Although we feel tired, but we missed for lack of evidence provided the ring road and get yet another exclusive city tour stop and go. Then fall out at once all our lights, including the speedometer and fuel gauge. Exasperated Bernard tries to find the short circuit, while at it, remove the fuse and we just drive Keep it up. Slowly we have makes it thick and frustration is spreading in the camper. Behind Challapata changed the landscape and it's back winding uphill and downhill. Then we are stuck in traffic. A truck had contact Berg and his entire load is distributed on the street.


The area is accessible karstic and it grows out of hard grass, hardly anything.

see very painful for us is that not only children but are also old in the street and beg. We have been in South America not yet experienced. Sometimes they have one or two eggs in her hand and want to sell them. For the children we have something old and then have to just give up with it. The rivers have no water, not even rivulets. Here one of the tributaries the Río Pilcomayo . If it were not so great for us, we hope the people have to rain.


we are completely killed 540 km to El Alto on to our destination, the Laguna Tarapaya . The almost circular, 100 m wide crater lake Laguna is a 35 ° warm water. Even the Inca Huayna Capac is here have bathed. A small fortified pool closes itself and although it is almost dark, we can not take us to dive into the warm sulphurous water. Then a thunderstorm with wind and finally, finally, heavy rain.



The next morning all is forgotten and we decide to take a day off. The first women from the village are already there, to the overflow from the thermal pool to wash their laundry. When did you ever have the luxury of warm water. The washed clothes to dry, they lay down on the floor because it is then immediately dirty.




We see us explore a little in the environment and to the so-called Ojo del Inca (eye of the Incas). The water here is 75 ° from the earth.


Very well, we can recognize the bubble and a sulfur smell pollutes the air.



But many a gem delighted our eyes, as here, this tree that we have a very long time no see again



and a single flowering plant located in the karst environment .



The mountains provide a magnificent backdrop of some to the small town Tarapaya and its currently waterless thermal pool.



way we could stand it much longer.


but we will make a trip and a vacation, we are drawn to Potosí. One of the saddest places in Bolivian history. Potosí is on 4065 meters and is the highest city in the world. 1545 in the Cerro Rico (4829 m) discovers a gigantic silver deposits and Potosi the richest and largest city of the time of America and Europe. The silver stream filled English treasury, and to date 46,000 tons Silver from the mountain fetched. Whole villages were depopulated and driven indigenous people for forced labor in the mines. There are here for up to 8 million people have toiled to death. Then the silver ebbed and Potosí impoverished, until such time as they exploited the tin deposits in the same mountain. It made the tin barons rich, not the plight of indigenous people better. This is a view of the city with his all-dominating mountain, which is for the indigenous the entrance to Hell.



We were looking for a place for Burro and were allowed by the Residencia Tarija in the beautiful courtyard. However, we also had to ensure the Pay room and power they would give us, not even an extra charge. But first, we were glad to have ever found a safe place to live. In its heyday had fallen Potosí 36 churches, most are today. Just as the former colonial buildings. For several years, beginning with the renovation, but it is slow, it simply lacks the money. The tourist office is housed in the Torre de la Compañia de Jesus, the associated Jesuit church is a ruin.


We stood in front of locked doors and surprised us, it was normal business hours. So we went to the Plaza, where we first El Cabildo, the old City Hall were to face. This would also have a painting you urgently needed.


Then later on the Plaza 10 de Noviembre us everything was clear. What was that? Of course, a Paro, a strike, as so often in recent days. At first it looked even after only a few participants.


We climbed the tower of Mirardor cafes and had a nice view from above the bustle of the city. Meanwhile, the streets full of protesters in the inner city was then a sit-in traffic was completely paralyzed.


The Cathedral of Potosi had been closed for years due to renovation. Although we were allowed through, but inside it was out of scaffolding and workmen not much to see.


We were allowed to climb for the second time today a tower and then directly under the bells had another look at the Cerro Rico.



Since everything was closed because of the strike, we had no choice but the only way to stroll through the town. At this colonial home with the Balcon de la Horca one has hung in previous years, the criminal.


Then we went through a little street with renovated houses.


The Portal of the Church of San Lorenzo is a gem of indigenous stone carving, the so-called Mestizo Estilo.



Today, the miners are working voluntarily in the mines. There is hardly another way to work for them. However, the circumstances are still shocking. spit inadequate security, insufficient fresh air supply and use of various poisons for the deposition of metals: Due to poor conditions in the mine the miners after 5 years and blood after all more than 10 years die, most, if not an accident before. In previous years, already 8 years children worked in the tunnels, that is now banned in Bolivia. But 12-14 years must also support today as their families.

Bernd wished to satisfy the ground and joined a mine tour. All were equipped with suit, helmet and rubber boots. The first path led to Mercado de Mineros . There were gifts purchased coca (coca without the miners can not tolerate at all the work), drinks, dynamite and detonating cord. Here were all the jokes to placed. When one has already generated a stick of dynamite in the hand or the mouth.


The first workers who were responsible for crushing the stones got their share of coca.

Here are large pieces of ore untreated, fresh out of the tunnel.


Now the group was shown the equipment in which the metals are washed with various chemicals.


Then it became serious, the tunnel entrance was reached. As I said for the indigenous of the entrance to hell.

Suspiciously eyeing the tunnels Bernd security. That was surely more of a joke. In the group walked stooped forward about 400 meters, and Bernd has ca.50mal hit his head. Well, he's also a little bit larger than the population here.


The indigenous people believe that the metals are the devil. For each course in the tunnels they sacrifice him cigarettes, alcohol or cocaine, so he can come back safe to light. As a precaution, the group made it to the miners, you never know and a little later also take him a victim of Pacha Mama. Two is better and is also urgently needed.


was drifting mastered the way to the lower level of the tunnel. What's so herumflirrt on the image of the dust in the air. Everyone had to wear a scarf in front of the mouth, so he was less somewhat protected from arsenic gas, sulfur vapor and methane.


walked on wobbly ladders it deeper down (The workers carry the rocks on those heads up). The heat was getting unbearable and breathing was difficult. Bernd took more time off the cloth, because he had the feeling slowly suffocate.



At the bottom was the group of workers To observe the holes with picks for a blast prepared. The dynamite was very welcome here. On the dubious pleasure of a blast but was waived by the group.


won crawling and climbing, the group the way up and was happy for 31 / 2 hours to be back in the fresh air. A last look at the homes of some of the miners and then we went back by bus to the city. No one here would even one day like to share with the workers. Bernd was certainly completely finished. Here he has only the way back down the workers and not worked a handshake physically.


WoMo In common with Bernard's arrival, a sulfur smell. So that if one gets too close to the devil. For hours he then coughed yet. The next morning he was sore from the seals and climbing. He at least could not imagine down there and hack it still rocks from the mountain and then on his back up to tow, even if he were younger. Once again we were so glad and grateful to live in another world. Especially since we also had about the high altitude just 9 degrees in the camper. But we have a heater, most of them can only dream about.

During our city tour we were the Hostal Copacabana struck with a large yard. There we were welcome. The Court was not very nice, but cheaper and with power. So we moved the first time. Although the Paro is still going on, but the Real Casa de la Moneda was open today and we could look at what was with all that silver so everything done. First, of course, coins. In Potosí before the coins were produced, among other things for Spain. Irony is that today Bolivia gets his coins from Chile.

The building itself was quite well received and well worth seeing.


with many different patios.


the good end for a few silver work. In Potosí itself one can find beautiful silver jewelry any more.



We thought nothing more sad here in this city and so we continued the next morning. In the city exit, we passed a tiny shop for car electronics. (Worked on the street) After one hour had the bare wire and found our ads back in the green. We were able to calm continue, hoping once again that we finally have peace. Many miles we drove over a punaartige Plateau, and then behind Chiclani to descend 1000 meters in the valley of the Pilcomayo . We crossed the river (which at last brought water with them) on a modern bridge with nice views of the old suspension bridge from the 19th Century.


Now we had to climb up again to a pass, only to then immediately go back to down to Yotala . Then our destination Sucre, the capital of Bolivia was reached. Problematic passage is designed to Hotel Austria opposite the bus station and our parking space in this city. Sucre is also the White City and referred to Potosí was a treat for our eyes. Sucre has many attractions not, here are the attractions the whole city is in itself. As always, we started to the plaza, which is called here 25 de Mayo and is beautifully landscaped on. Dominating is the statue of General José de Sucre , the freedom fighters and namesake of the city.


Today In full glory of the former government palace it is the Prefectura .

course it is a must part of any visitor, the Casa de la Libertad (House of Freedom) to visit, the expression of the Bolivian national pride. In the Salón de la Independencia on 6 August 1825 Bolivia declared its independence, here you can see the documents and admire the paintings of the freedom fighters Bolíviar, Sucre and Ballivian .

And by the way one gets a view of beautiful buildings.

The entrance of the cathedral


and its beautiful bell tower.


A unique museum We have looked at and that the Museo Textil Etnográfica y Arte Indígena. For once here was explanations in German and we found this all so fascinating that we have spent half a day in the museum. Mainly weaving of exquisite quality and beauty could be admired.

However, festive dresses and dance costumes of various ethnic groups.

Once a church, the Iglesia Santa Teresa and then our feet were tired city. We desperately needed something to relax.


offered As to that a few miles outside, in the still-powered cement plant, was discovered in 1994 more than 5,000 footprints of over 300 different dinosaurs. It has now been created there such thing as a Jurasik Park. As we could easily recognizable from the outside.

Inside we met all the known species of just-hatched young


up to the T-Rex.


was overlooked and almost that of one of the reason was for our visit

and of course the footprints unfortunately a bit far away but still easily recognizable because of their size were.

The more than palm-sized butterflies would probably not stand back from these proportions as well.



back to our campsite we believed our eyes to trust. Now there's dinosaurs on the camper's. A Swiss family with three children ventures with the monster by South American cities. Our Burro was almost as complex.



As from now the only road slopes and for us not drive, we have to the entire range of Potosi and Oruro Tarapaya go back to Laguna. For that we can once again spend a relaxing evening with a bathroom on the lagoon, before we venture back into new areas.