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from Tiwanaku to the "dizzying" La Paz

On our last trip, we have yes Bolivia because of the tense political situation relieved. As the tempers have cooled in the meantime, we went on our way to Desaguadero , the border crossing to Bolivia. There, there was an unusual rush and we had to leave for persons classified in the blazing sun in a long line. Instead, we were then but faster by Burro.

When people travel to Bolivia, progress was swift, except for the fact that the border guards wanted me to give only 30 days stay. Since it already required a lengthy debate over the 90 days to get. But then after that Bernd had no more problem. But as so often, there is always something new times. They had no duty station here for vehicles and we had a few miles to the truck terminal. Stood hundreds of trucks were waiting and customs clearance. We staggered nearly speechless. Our special congratulations are between Peru and Bolivia also one hour time difference and therefore we had gone to lunch. Bernd has beaten two hours standing in front of the terminal building until it was time clock 15.00 and gentlemen condescended to handle the trucks. Right on time at 14.45 clock began rain fell, and those waiting were also really nice wet. However, since most trucks wanted to Peru, we were at 15.30 clock with the temporary import by the rain and because we had no desire our to search the car. So finally we arrived in Bolivia .

liberally, we continue to lead Tiwanaku, the most important pre-Hispanic cultural center of Bolivia. But even though we were already at 16.10 clock there, we were able to visit them anymore. The switch for the ticket sales had closed 10 minutes ago. In addition, it started to rain here torrential-like. So we had no choice but to guard against allowing ourselves to the parking lot. When all the visitors were gone and we stood in the pitch black it was scary to us here. Far and wide, no house, no light, let alone any police station. Since we Bolivia still had no sense of security, we asked ourselves then it is better before a pizzeria. The owner had allowed us to her bedroom window and pointed out where we could address them in an emergency for help, but it was with her absolutely secure. We had no choice and accepted the offer.

The next morning we were due to the time change awake much too early and made our first time in the 2 kilometers away Tiwanaku site. The residents have built in earlier times, many of their houses from the stones of the sanctuary and immediately brought some sculptures.

Even the village church was built with stone heads from the Templete Semisubterráneo decorated. What did they thinking?



Finally it was 9.00 clock and we were able to buy tickets. The Tiwanaku culture is dated to the period 100 prior to 1000 AD and has left its mark in many parts of the highlands and even on the Pacific coast. To give us an overview, we first went to the Museo Lítico Monumental . There was no one to see the doors we had to open ourselves and think we were all, because what we saw. There were neither leaders nor explanations of the exhibits. So let's say, it is here is a sacred goal.

The importance of this window is left to the imagination of the viewer.

This is clearly an extremely weathered monoliths

something better it was in the adjacent Museum of Ceramic . Here we had made the least effort and occasionally attached Notes to the display cases. These deformed heads, we know from the Mayans. The heads of the infants were placed between boards and deformed in this way. At that time, Sun was a long skull with the upper class as well.

This kitty cat I would have already fallen. The jaguar is a symbol in all cultures in South America for a deity.

Then we went to visit the ruins . The total investment is 5qkm large, however, is obtained, hardly anything. No one knows today what Tiwanaku was. Capital of a kingdom, sanctuary or ceremonial culture. It will have 120,000 people lived here. There is no doubt that culture has influenced almost all subsequent cultures. Lack of leaders, we had to lean on the statements of our Guide with.

Here we see the aforementioned Templete Semisubterráno with its 175 surviving stone heads and embedded in the background the entrance to Kalasasaya and Ponce monolith .

undoubted highlight of the complex is the Intipunku (the Sun Gate). It is made of a single, 2.80 m high and 3.80 m wide manufactured block that has a 140 m high and 60 cm wide opening. Its weight is estimated at 10 tons. Unfortunately, the goal is eventually overturned and broken into two parts. The door is decorated with the image Wiracochas , the Earth Creator. It was also later cultures, especially the Incas as sacred, even though there was already a ruin in their time Tiwanaku.

are remarkable, the two surviving monolith, the similarities with the monolith of Tula in Mexico exhibit. Here the Fraile monolith

and once again high as a single recording of 3.50m Ponce monolith, which probably represent a deity.

little further and out of the ruins to the district is still Pumapunku . Here we see the likely Port facility. Although the Lake Titicaca today than 20 kilometers away, he allegedly then passed up here.

It's just before lunch when we are finished with the overall inspection. Although there is not much to see, but somehow it was very impressive, as remains of the Tiwanaku culture we already met all the time.
But now we need good nerves, because in 70 miles we will be in La Paz. First, we must by El Alto torment that lies at an altitude of 4,100 meters and once the slum suburb of La Paz was. The dispute has split off from El Alto, La Paz and is now an independent sister city. Now with over one million inhabitants and hundreds added each day come from the impoverished hinterland. El Alto is considered the fastest growing, ugliest and most criminal city of South America. The road is a single shaker and the traffic horrendous. This applies to eyes and through. At the drip line, we already have a fabulous view of La Paz with its bustling streets.

We can even imagine the center of the tower of the Basilica of San Francisco .

a few miles it goes steeply downhill to 3,100 meters. If you drive down only thinks that he can not abandon his brakes and he goes up, hopefully he comes up. In the 1.3 million city within the city there is a vertical drop of 1,000 meters and the deepest point it is equal to a few degrees warmer. Once at the bottom we go straight back a long way uphill to our destination to get the Hotel Oberland . We are amazed about all the Traveler in the parking lot. We see only a corner, because a camper driver reacted kindly. Here is an international society of Germans, French, Danish and Swiss. Soon we will be welcomed most warmly. For today we are flat, but is It has a lively exchange of information. Some are here for years and move out of South America have already scoured the world and half in part with school-age children on board.
We take it slow and let us arrange for the next day with Barbara, Birte and Ulli to a meeting in the office cake in the center of La Paz, apple pie and Berlin in Germany, what a pleasure. Birte and her partner Ingo for weeks here, as they have their car in the garage. You know his way around in this bustling and in the truest sense of the word "breathtaking" city. So we come today to equal the best of five rye bread of Arco Iris , a charity for street children, language courses and a DVD-class appointment with Ernesto , South America's most famous garage in camper travelers. There are currently so many travelers that we can in a week to him in order to repair our hand brake. So we have time right vacation here.

Boring it is not. There is much to tell and when in the mood for it and altitude sickness permitting, one can with the center. La Paz has many attractions not to offer except its colorful markets and the constant up and down in the streets. The houses are in the slopes built every year slip in the wet season and some times it is again hundreds dead. But not really interested, it will be built on and on.
The drive from the upper country is very far to the center and take a taxi a ¾ hour. By bus or micro one is an hour on the road, which is partly also to the many traffic. As we have repeatedly taxi drove today we take the bus times. He is so slow that we had the route can also go on foot. But we see so all sorts of interesting things. For example, stand on a place about a hundred men with pockets. is written on the bags what they are and craftsmen in the pockets of their tools. They are waiting for work. Does anyone as a plumber (Plomero) he can choose one here. If the work is done, the man is here again and hope for the next job. Someone still thinks that we feel bad in Germany?

The Micros and buses are in addition to taxis, the main means of transportation, as private cars can hardly afford one. As empty as this one are rare. It is usually pure squeezed what goes.

The main square in La Paz is not for once Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas, Plaza Pedro Domingo Murillo but . The rebel and freedom fighter was hanged here in 1810 by royalists. But his freedom of thought endures to this day, and he shall have a monument. A much smaller memorial to the President Villarroel, who was hanged in 1946, on this place, this time by an angry crowd. Yes, the Bolivians are already a separate people. They live peacefully side by side in La Paz, to once again provided by a coup or a general strike for excitement, or the uprising of last year with the many dead.

The Cathedral of La Paz is quite big, but unattractive.

from a bridge, we see the Basilica San Francisco and again one of the almost daily demonstrations taking place.

Whether this clutter nor anyone knows? visit

We the Coca Museum and let us to the really interesting and educational tour Kokakuchen (even with explanations in German) in the adjacent café, biscuits and tea taste. A bag Kokabonbons we also have to, we will continue to be well prepared for the altitude sickness. The time we do not mind at all thanks to the above-mentioned remedies.

Nevertheless, many houses here that make a sad impression, there are always treasures to discover.

The Brazilian Mercil and Jeronymo that we had on the road once met briefly, are found also in the upper country and persuade Bernard to make a downhill trip on the Camino de la Muerte (Death Road) through the Yungas . Me that's not right, but the road has not earned the name. But Bernard would like to go to this spectacular route. It will be 3,000 meters in altitude and crossed almost all climate and vegetation zones in South America. From Thin Air to the steamy rain forest. Even at 6.00 clock in the morning, driving a taxi to the three organizers. There they will receive helmets, gloves, long pants and rain jacket. After that, only once had breakfast together. In two buses, the group is then taken to the La Cumbe Pass to 4640 meters. Behind the lagoon rises the mountain of Potosi and its glacier.

received here each his bike and it was first made exercises how to drive, for example, a large stone, whether one comes to terms with the brakes, etc.

The helmet may look quite impressive of whether it will really help but at 600 meters abyss I doubt, A parachute would be more appropriate ..

Then it went downhill, however, only 25 km time on asphalt. After that, the bikes were checked again.

For now it was serious. No one was allowed to have more faint of heart. The track is no less a highway and at some points just 3.20 meters. would

This section is one of the most dangerous for cyclists and motorists here can not be sure. Of oncoming traffic, never mind.

who fly here from the curve to learn to fly. The cliffs are sometimes up to 600 meters deep. It goes under several waterfalls and through the Río Yolosani through. Although the scenery is magnificent, but the road layout requires full concentration, since as already mentioned, still on the cars must be respected.

But for a photo is still time.

remember the many crosses along the way not only to motorists, even when the cyclists, the death rate is high.

forward all to safe and healthy to have arrived at 1,250 meters.

The group drinks at lunch and swim in the hotel Esmeralda near Coroico . They are then transported back into the buses and may, when driving uphill take another look at a section of the route traveled.

After they were in the rain forest, the barren mountains of it again now. Around 19:00 clock my three adventurers are back, exhausted but happy. Bernard was also the oldest participant and has fought bravely. I'm proud of him and glad that I have him back safe. pass

The days in La Paz in a flash. Again you can discover something new. We now have 02 November. There is a special tradition, the festival los Todos Santos (All Saints) to celebrate. Since yesterday, all go to cemeteries and take it with food and drinks. Especially for the dead bread baked the forms of humans, animals or plants have.

Bandas play for a dance.

alcohol flows freely. It is always something poured on the grave for the dead and of course for Pachamama . Box way here stand around the empty beer bottles. Fasting is no more and we fear Pachamama is until next year in a coma.

We are quickly forgiven and go to the Valle de Luna (Moon Valley) near the Hotel Oberland. In essence, the Moon Valley of bizarre rock formations.

Where is a nice color contrast to the mountains

and the sprawling city in the background.

time again in the center, we visit the Museum Tiwanaku, also from the outside only makes a good impression.

Inside, it is designed as unkind as the museums on the original site. Only the Jaguar makes us happy again.

Upstairs one room is open. The beautiful display cases were funded by the State of Israel.

In the old Calle Jaén we find the Casa Murillo and wonder that in La Paz like that still exist.

the meantime, we are moved into the workshop of the Swiss Ernesto . Here it is almost clinically clean, even any oil stain is wiped from the floor. Burro needs a thorough Overhaul and this takes time. The badly battered bumper and right exterior mirrors are also repaired. The motor protection is remade and replaced. A heat shield is loose. The oil change is due. As far as the simple things and now it gets complicated. There is no air filter, no pads, and above all no key to get to the handbrake. Ernesto was a man of spare parts is just there to be found. Two days he seeks in vain, even in El Alto. Our IVECO not drive in Bolivia, so there's no spare parts. But we should not give up, somehow it is always a solution, well hopefully! We set up on another week of La Paz. We use the time to instruct an upholsterer bolster the front seats and provide them with new material. He does really great, except for the color (he had a contract similar to comment on our stock), he is dead wrong. Rosa and me. He can not understand that I will not as the chair. I ride with him in a taxi (even an independent upholsterer can afford a car here) to the center and pick a suitable material so that it must refer the new seats. Well only that wages are so cheap here.

We have so much time to wander around every now and again in the center of La Paz around. Here is a typical street scene with the snow-capped Cordillera Real in the background.

Everywhere you want to sell something indigenous to somehow make ends meet. The traffic is horrible, although this is almost exclusively taxis or Micros.

spices of all kinds are offered for sale here at the roadside

is Walking Through it all the uphill and downhill. Still we breathe with every step. Whether the locals here, with so many of the stores themselves do not have a clear view?

After one week workshop Ernesto is certain he can not help us. In the whole of La Paz, the nut is to open our hand brake drum not be found. We get the hint it in El Alto at Walter Martínez try. Ironically, El Alto, we are probably not at the thought but we have a choice? The workshop makes more like a junk room and teeming with filth. Much to our surprise, we meet here again the German / French family, which we already know from the Oberland. They are also quite a week here and have the best impression of Walter. He seems really a skilled worker to be and makes the impossible possible. First, he conjures up the nut on the handbrake and not only that, he worried even a second for us. We now have more on board, so we do not have such a drama experience. Why Walter has such a nut and the helper of Ernesto could not get it? The answer is simple: Ernesto is Gringo and Walter Aymara. Up here there's only indigenous people, we have a week we have to stay here beyond the workshop not seen a single white face. The two later work of Walter silently away at Burro. You see the problem with the parking brake immediately, who in the workshop in Quito made botch and the brake is not set correctly. In addition, a covering is worn again, because the other side all the time did not work. In two Days everything is repaired and functioning. But a brake lining of the brake system must be renewed. Is there not be just because the old iron updated with new flooring. This should hold until we are in Brazil, where there is our model and the right spare parts. The oil in the differential transmission is also changed yet. Walter comes to us with anxious mien. The volunteers have sifted through the old oil and metal parts found in it. This does not bode well. So the transmission is removed and in fact, a couple of spacers are rotten or have already disbanded. The spare parts must order it in Chile. We can prepare ourselves for a long stay in El Alto. Two days keep us Jana and their children Julie and Xavier Auguste, Sepi, and the dog in a good mood, then finished her camper and leave this sad place. For three hours they have washed their dog until at last all the dirt he was down. Here is just water, oil and everything else run on the ground, therefore it does in our environment. My question to a trash can is acknowledged only with a shrug.

I have a toothache, and we make our way to a dentist in La Paz, the practice is top notch and can compete with European standards (prices also). A tooth root is inflamed and I get antibiotics and painkillers. After 7 days I will introduce myself again. Since we are a long time but hopefully in Santa Cruz. Too bad, because if the antibiotics will not help be down the crown and the tooth pulled. The dentist gives me a whim, but if one is already Aguirre (who knows the film with Klaus Kinski in the starring role?). Back in El Alto is the next bad news: All tax collectors go on strike indefinitely. Our spare parts are located in Iquique and do not come through customs. In Bolivia, you never know when a strike is over, it can take days or even weeks. We think this is not in the pitiful El Alto and in this bleak environment. Walter correctly and make us a proposal from an IVECO, of here with him for repair is to expand the transmission and the right spare parts to take care of us if these are still on the car in order. Us everything is right, the main thing at some point we come away from here. He introduces us to be available here and we can at least write the blog. The next time you will find out whether we are still in La Paz, or whether it has finally been a solution for us.