The Pantanal is a UNESCO protected under the international biosphere reserve. In South America it is the area with the highest density of plant and animal species. Unfortunately, we are just over 3 weeks late and the rainy season has already begun, in the Pantanal, the country sinks into the water and only a few areas and routes are not flooded.
a little crazy we are, yet we do not dare brave the rainy season and yet another trip to the Pantanal . Brazil without Pantanal is like strawberries without cream. The Pantanal Norte already has too much water and it can only Estrada Parque in its southern part. Since we can not get a definite statement as to whether the road is passable throughout, we agree to go into it and possibly reverse, if we mean it no longer works. Today's sunny and very hot day gives us courage. 15 km behind Corumbá began the entry. First, there was still something in the air and the track was very rocky. Lot of debris had distributed the rain of the last days already in the lane, she was indeed slow and bumpy, but passable. After the last houses we went steeply down into the actual Pantanal. Here we had last year has seen huge flocks of birds. But great was the disappointment no spoonbill and jabirus in sight. At first we looked in vain for the wooden bridges from the area for wildlife. Then finally it got its first Jacaré (Cayman) and was extensively reviewed by us and photographed.
On the other Side listened to the rock slope and our initial joy went by us soon. The track was visibly muddy and difficult. Again on a bridge we thought at first only a large collection of capybara to have discovered. But then we realized what was a incredibly lucky we are there. It was a family of giant otters. Which are now highly threatened and even in the Pantanal to discover rare. We got out to watch them in peace. That has, however, cost a lot of bloodshed, the most dangerous animal is and remains the mosquito. The table manners of the otters were not particularly distinguished, because the fish eat, they gave loud smacking noises of itself.
Then they turned back towards her thoroughly enjoyed the game. Bernd jostled slowly, for now it was clear that we the end of the trail before dark could not reach. But we could not tear ourselves and there was no car, there was no reason to leave the bridge. The otters have finished the whole thing himself, namely, they moved away from simple. In the background we heard the dull roar even of howler monkeys. Although they were not visible, it has us very excited.
family capybara was unimpressed, and us a bird. was
flocks of birds to see it still does not. You are probably already moved into the vast hinterland. But we discovered this hitherto unknown to us Gritador Chaya (German name?). There are powerful, goose-like birds of almost a meter in size.
Then it was really bad. Although it was very hot still, the track was still muddy and we could only go in one track. Oncoming traffic could not come now, and came not to happiness. Reverse would have been stupid, but we had already more than 2 / 3 of the total distance behind us. Some had the track is extended so deep that we pitched in the middle. Again we were grateful for our stable engine protection. Hold was now only possible on the bridges, because it no longer dared Bernd in the mud to stop. Secretly, we thanked the customs that he has stopped us one day and in that time, the runway at least a little
could dry. 
But deflected us from the animals again and again and finally it was also seen a few jabirus.
Lakeside Lodge before the Arara we thought he was dreaming. Thousands of Jacaré were here side by side. This is a special paradise. The big pig is surrounded by water Jacaréjungtieren and the pink spoonbill has no respect for the gaping, tooth-defying mouths.
We asked ourselves how for so many animals can be filled. something we have not seen last year.
The young animals even cross the runway, but on the other side is full as well. Mind you, this is not a zoo but outdoors.
We would like to end as the Arara Lodge our journey, as we see here in the dark Jacaré could. But they can not soften . Although they have no guests, they allow us not to remain with the camper. The Jacaré were as much on the lawn between the dogs. But at least we see also the Araras-Azul (Hyacinth Macaw), which is quite decorative in the first tree to hide
and then provide us with an air show.
We have to be 20 kilometers and that is to drive more than two hours with full concentration. We still see Araras-vermelhas (red macaws), but because of the stopping distance is unfortunately impossible. At the entrance to Paso Thurs Lontra Lodge already a welcoming committee waiting in the form of Cara Cara's on us. Finally we can call it a day. As soon as we parked, it is already dark. We can not get out. Outside, the mosquitoes that lurk on us. The stitches that we have gone through, we can not even count, but what we have experienced for us was worth the little bit of blood loss.
We had only one worry, it will rain in the night? If so, then we are stuck here. Although there are only 8 km distance, but we can not do in the mud. At least since our experience at the Hacienda we know only too well. The weather gods had pity on us and the next morning the sun is shining from the sky and not a cloud in sight. We went briefly to the banks of the Río Miranda, who was already filled with water. A boat tour, we now need to do no more, we do not see animals from the water.
We will still each one cap with the logo Lodge and then we make our way. Directly on the long bridge to the lodge makes it its name (Otterweglodge) credit. Otter swimming in the water. This time only the "normal". As we disembark, we are berated to the desert and even the teeth shown.
Since we do not like this show but impressed in the least, give the Otter again for pleasure, out fishing and ignore us.
The run is not got better since yesterday and we lurch towards the end of the runway. A toucan showed us his good side. While we can not get out of the track, but there is no oncoming traffic (except no one seems to be so wrong, yet to drive in the Pantanal), Bernd also creates an image from your car.
After an hour we have the paved causeway and thus more solid ground under the wheels. In hindsight, we know that it was very risky and outrageous good luck we had, but we do not want to miss this tour. I would like to have three weeks the park road up and down ride if the weather permitted and Bernd's nerves could bear. The next 110 km to the causeway, we can see very clearly how high the water is already available. Now and then we see also a Jacaré. But here they are no longer protected and are on the menu. In Miranda we leave it to us with a good Rodizo (Supplement buffet and freshly grilled meats until you drop) for the first time go well. Especially Bernd has the earned his tight driving performance. Then we drive, 360 kilometers across the Mato Grosso do Sul , past the city of Campo Grande , to the gas station Mutum overnight. It's still burning hot and we are hardly sleep. Also the next day was a pure driving day of 540 boring, hot kilometers from agricultural areas into the state S \u0026lt;o Paulo and again one night in a nameless gas station. Even our Brazilian friends had urged us to respect a minimum distance of 100 kilometers to the city S \u0026lt;o Paulo , not to be victims of an assault to . So we drive around a wide area the Mega City and landed on the beautiful SP 099 through the coastal mountains to the Costa Verde. At last the end of bleak sugar cane and soybean acreage. Forests and lakes to determine the image again. At the last km, there was a storm. The heavens opened its gates and poured incredible amounts of heavy rain. In a moment the street was a river and the low-stakes water holes. The uphill driving buses and trucks had come to correct further problems. We drove down to luck. Then there was the rain came so fast as he did, but the meadows were flooded around. In Caraguatatuba at the Costa Verde nothing could be felt. I suddenly had the idea to spend a few days on the island of Ilhabela, and so we went first to S \u0026lt; o Sebasti \u0026lt; o because we did not know whether we are using the camper at all can access the island. The lady at the tourist office spoke only Portuguese and was not much use to us first. But then she had a show and called someone who could speak some English and English. We learned to our astonishment, that we need a permit to visit the island with the camper can. Five phone calls, a fax and an hour later had we permit in the hands of nine days or until 25.12. stay on the island to be allowed. As it was for a translation now too late, we strolled a bit through the nice town with its beautiful houses from the colonial period as here, the Casa Esperan a
or Capela de S \u0026lt; o Gon alo the 17th Century.
In a supermarket, covered us with food nor a precaution, we did not know how we would meet on the island. There was a campsite and not a hotel with a large Parking. But according to the lady in the Touri we should just stay right on the beach promenade, that would be no problem, and also safe. As a precaution, we asked in the police, according to (have the us at all right?), Because after all, the city has 80,000 inhabitants. The police saw no problem and so we decided to risk it. It was so warm and small children played in the parks, so we still sat outside clock to 22.30, before we moved back into the camper. To 4.00 clock in the morning the revelers were still in transit and we had a little restless, yet unmolested night and much to our rest, we looked at and drive to a police patrol car.
runs the ferry to Ilhabela 24 hours a day, and in half hour intervals. However, we had to wait and came to the next ferry. On the ferry we spoke to a German and said that we would be very far away from Germany. He lives and works in S \u0026lt;o Paulo and on the island a holiday cottage. What that meant we were clear until much later. Whether much was happening on the island we wanted to know. At the moment, not yet, but at 26.12. the tourists and up 04.01. then all hell breaks loose. Well, we're gone.
The ferry in Barra Velha the supply center of the island. It has 28,000 inhabitants and is not particularly large. Nevertheless, it appears to be a very popular holiday destination. The latest was clear to us when we moved to the 30 km of paved roads on the island. As the same time other 3 cruise ships were built, streets were flooded by people literally. Nevertheless, we found the campsite Pedra do Sino a quiet pitch with a lovely view. But first we would not have it so right. It was too expensive to us, the ramp is too steep and uneven, the only free space. So we went to the other end of the island, the three other campsites from. We could have saved us, no one wanted to take us and so we returned to the Pedra do Sino, not negotiate without a little the price down. Bernard had to go across the main driveway and then was built with stones and wood to some extent we were given. One thing was certain, with the camper, we would leave the place once again at our departure.
Now we had a mobility problem. Bernard tried to rent a motor scooter. But basically they give to tourists here on any motorcycle, was allegedly too dangerous. For a taxi ride of 15 kilometers, he paid 28 euros. We have been able take rest in South America for half a day taxi. So he took a bicycle. Who here but no gearshift and the island is mountainous. Until he was at the camp he had to descend seven times and push and at temperatures above 30 degrees. For the tour with a jeep on the 20-kilometer trail to the beautiful beach of the island must be booked from a driver and then it cost only 250 €. A small car costs 80 € and it's worth actually for 30 kilometers of road and not the track may not be so down. We just do not realize that the island is a Piratenisel. She was 6 years, the hiding place of Thomas Cavendish, aka Captain Redbeard (which is to be filmed several times, we have as good an education gap).
Two days later, Bernd ausgeknöttert and we get a rental car. Now we are mobile again and can finally explore the beauty of the island. One of our first way leads us to the Parque Estadual de Ilhabela . There is a narrow, nearly overgrown jungle paths to various water holes in the river, which also can swim. Right at the beginning there is a billboard which animals we can see here, the highly poisonous Coral snake is also present. Well we wear because of all the mosquitoes and the acute warning of dengue fever sturdy shoes and mosquito-proof our suit. All others run in flip-flops and bathing suits around. The water holes are very nice to look, but do not lure us into a bathroom. interested
We are far more of the 10 meter high observation tower from which we can supposedly watch birds. Although we act calmly about half an hour, we get a special bird to see. We hear, in the dense forest of leaves are not easy to identify. Furthermore, none of the promised animals can be seen. However, the migration an adventure to own simply because of the wilderness around us was around.
We make a trip to the southern end of the Island have and always beautiful views of the coast and the "cottages" on the slopes. We learn that the island is the haunt of the rich from Brazil. For fun times we ask for the prices of the "little house". I will even say so: A six-Lotto would be helpful.
There are also some waterfalls. Not impressed by the amount but also the environment.
The island is filled from day to day. Here's a look at our beach house, we can achieve by Campingpaltz in 5 minutes over a few stairs.
Another trip takes us to Cachoeira (waterfall) Toca da. He is on the site of a former plantation and there even has to be paid for admission. In return you can but stay there all day and swim in the cold water, with life vest and swarmed by thousands of mosquitoes. As a precaution, they offer there its own citronella mosquito repellent for free.
Again and again we enjoyed the sight of the beautiful bay with boats moored there.
come thanks to car we stroll in the evening after Vila, where the land is Steeg for cruise ships. There is not much more than two streets with some very expensive shops. But they can take it here, yes. When creating the cruise ships, the people storming the stores and buy everything at almost any price.
What we are getting plenty of animals to face birds. As here, the hummingbird.
This one is black with white wings and do not absolutely still.
But we see this contemporary calmly and surprised that we are because of the hummingbirds have so. Finally, he is also black and white.
Thanks to a nice camping holiday we get a mobile internet stick and can send our Christmas mail and read it because it is an internet cafe near the place none. We spend a quiet Christmas Eve and 25.12. We leave early in the morning the island. It appealed to us, despite the high prices here very much. The island has earned the name of the fair. But our island residence permit has expired. We just do not belong to the rich.
down from the island was then no problem. However, were on the other side of the cars from the ferry into the city. Hard to believe that Ilhabela can hold all the more.
Brazil covers almost half the South American continent. Has 180 million inhabitants, making it the fifth most populous country in the world. About half of it seems at this time to make holiday on the Costa Verde. Although it is still early in the morning, the public stands in Caraguatatuba and Ubatuba are already overcrowded. There is no more and Parkpätze still flock to the masses.
But we do not attract the beach and so we can enjoy the beautiful environment. The jungle grows here to the coast road.
Our goal was Parati, a in 1660, founded by the Portuguese city whose harbor is important for the shipment of gold was found in Minas Gerais. But first we had to look for the campsite of Camping Clube do Brasil . The city is situated on the beach and yet close to the center. As we had already secretly fears, the square was hopelessly overcrowded and we were squeezed to a tiny area. What Ilhabela for the rich, the rest of the Costa Verde for the middle class, a holiday paradise and particularly in the months of December to late January. Our plan was to 4th January to stay here, but that it was necessary to reconsider again. Today's the 25th December was not to be overlooked in the equipment of the awnings on the pitch despite 34 °.
Parati was connected until 1970 at the coastal road. The many years of seclusion were the reason why it has changed in the colonial city and little UNESCO placed the entire Centro Histórico listed. Rarely have we seen such a beautiful small town. The traffic largely banished, the streets in their original condition and refurbished houses and mostly inhabited by artists
or princesses. to make
To make matters perfect, even to the sea. There are competing skippers of pleasure boats to customers in order to bring them to the nearby islands.
late afternoon, the town is flooded by tourists.
In the shops you can buy all sorts of goodies, alone, 300 different types of alcoholic drinks brands. Parati is because of the surrounding sugar cane distilleries a "spiritual" stronghold.
From Cais do Porto there is a beautiful view of the built in 1722 Igreja Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos and the coastal mountains in the background. This is probably the most photographed place in Parati. Since we were on the second day provided a camper awning to the side and that extends to our bathroom window, this is also our farewell photo of Parati.
We have come to the realization that we are at the wrong time on the coast. Because we want more Parati colonial cities made and there is like to discover in the hinterland have some, we will be forgiven there. We hope there also is less heat. But to get there, we need to go a little further along the coast. What we always have beautiful views of coves
and offshore islands.
Our last night on the Costa Verde should be Mangaratiba . But the Guide was not specified campsite and it was good advice. Located in the center was a parking lot, but on the night was allowed under penalty of 2.00 - not 6.00 Clock be parked. We got after some back and forth from the police, a special permit and an assurance that we could stand here absolutely safe and quiet. As was the case then. Unfortunately we had to enter the state of Minas Gerais to come take the motorway to the suburbs of Rio de Janeiro. We were warned by several pages, not there to stop or even to ask for directions. was precisely at the critical point, we missed the ill-marked turnoff and Bernd go to the slums, turn and look for a way back to the highway. This has brought us a few drops of sweat on the forehead, but in the end we were then on the right road and our trip Minas Gerais was nothing to prevent.
