Sun all slowly adopted we are by the Andean highlands, but first of all that happened in stages. Again Oruro to intersection Caracollo we were still on the Altiplano. Then it was over 200 kilometers steadily down and just before Cochabamba, the large market town between La Paz and Santa Cruz, we lost 1,000 meters in height. From Sipesipe proceeded to the city limits and it was no longer recognize where actually began the outskirts of Cochabamba. Since we had no address and wanted to get on no account should the city, we have Quillacolla , 10 miles earlier, an attempt at the Casa y Cabañas started Campe. What proved to be a lucky, because although it was received very generous here, we were welcome and well looked after. In the rate of 90 Bolivianos (9, - EUR), breakfast was included at its best, electricity, use of the pool, WiFi and a room key to use the shower. Here we could really feel at home. Especially as it gets warmer with each altitude was killed.
The Hotellier insisted Bayer and no to be German. He was obviously proud of every 14 days Evo Morales, the president of Bolivia and Hugo Chavez from time to time even in Venezuela as guests of his House to have. We got some information and some insight into the lives of the rich who go in and out here. The Altiplano, with all its poverty is in the minds of these people very far away. He brought us from our original plan to visit the Inca ruins Incallajta because we would find there almost anything. Instead, he recommended us to the famous Sunday market Quillacollo . We sat in a micro-well and came to the same middle of the crowd.
As we already knew from Copacabana, there were now car blessings with holy water and a lot of alcohol. Replaces here the car insurance, Pastor looks forward to the additional revenue and stock is then drunk.
food is like almost everywhere in the world in the markets is most important.
here loves you very particularly greasy pig and term.
natural dyed wool is now the rage.
The department is also market with all sorts of witches powders and talismans is represented.
Back on the pitch we were visited by Mr B. He is originally from Cologne, but lives in Overath NR, and our flag has once recognized. Here in town it has two factories and a sawmill in the Amazon. We learned that to be made hardwood garden furniture and the same in Bolivia and then shipped in containers to Germany. He is seen here a few days to search for the right, also has a camper and is interested in our South America trip. He was even in Klüsserath and knows Uwe and Janette. The world is just a village. The next morning, he is approached his car and brings us to Cochabamba, there is a power failure and it can not work in his factory. Since he is well versed in the city, he shows us the supermarket, loads the 20-liter canister of water and the many bottles of sparkling water in his boot, have to drive a detour, because once again impedes Paro the direct continuation of work, brings me to the hairdresser and goes to Bernd while eating ice cream. Thank you for so much kindness and leave us until late afternoon, because he wants to take us for granted all the water to the camper. Such nice and helpful people you meet often. We continue on foot, because we want to see a little of Cochabamba. Cochabamba's not nice, but not particularly ugly. Because of its location at 2,500 meters altitude and mild climate, the city is highly valued as places to live and has some nice places, like here the Plaza Colon. (Also called Plaza 14 de Septiembre)
at the Plaza Principal are once again a few houses in colonial style.
Slowly we are approaching the Concha, the Indian market of Cochabamba. But we are somewhat disappointed, we find that the market for something special should be no different than the other markets that we've got to face. A micro brings us quickly the 10 kilometers to the camper and in the evening, Mr. B. comes with our water and we again entertainment.
wanted the next day we drive 150 kilometers on the old high road to the Inca ruins Incaracay . Finally out of the city and almost on the line was already over the ride, Paro and roadblock. When I asked how long the lock probably stop I got the answer: Until a solution is found, today, tomorrow, next week. All places from the total distance were involved in the roadblock. Since we did not want to wait until a solution for whatever is found, we decided that Cochabamba's done for us and we travel to the lowlands on. We have already seen so many Inca sites that are not relevant to a more or less, and slowly we are weary with all the Paros.
We must now pass through the town and just at the Concha. This is at a walking pace, both because of the heavy traffic anyway, the market stalls and all the pedestrians and also because so many other riders, need to find drivers because of the barrier is another way. First, it goes up and down two passes. After the second pass, we come to a lagoon and there are trout offered. As it is noon in the meantime already, let us not miss the delicious food.
We wonder about the many truck traffic and road is not the big hit. Time and again we encounter the supposedly good road to geological deformation and trucks remain at the dangerously deep gullies often stuck. It's really down dramatically in many corners and along the road are numerous trucks, which in the driveway, the cooling water is boiling and glow when leaving the tires. The landscape changes completely from the dry, barren highland forest in first and then into the rainforest.
From the minute it was muggy and humid. Our tires were glowing and it was high time we reached to 350 meters Villa Tunari . In There was a camper and scorching heat we had, after all the weeks in the height of some adaptation problems. In the jungle-like plant Cabañas and Balneario Palma Real we found something cool in the pool and a place for the night. The next day we drove 340 km boring through sugar cane plantations, Kokaanbaugebiete, pastures and faceless villages and 30 miles from Santa Cruz to its plant Automobile Club of Bolivia . Three swimming pools saved us here before the heat exhaustion. Santa Cruz is currently not our goal, we wanted to continue to Samaipata, but had on the ring (which was once again not to recognize as such) a great piece drive through the suburbs. As we lose oil for days, first of all we headed to a gas station with an oil change facility. After an hour it was clear that was botched when changing the oil in the famous workshop of South America and a locking ring was not removed. Now adequately supplied Burro was "dry" and it could go further. 20 kilometers behind Santa Cruz, San Jose was then jam. Three times you can guess why? Paro and road closure, it is slowly tear out their hair. Some truck drivers already knew their way and went on an adventurous gravel road around the city and we are behind. Sometimes we had a run-up in second gear and at full speed through boarded the sand. Burro and his driver were on top form and after one kilometer were we again was on asphalt and the village behind us. At the subsequent paying we asked ourselves if we come now to Samaipata unmolested and was confirmed to us that there is only a lock is local, the rest of the trip was free, well hopefully! The line was was partly the runway, but the scenery impressive. Steadily rising and in the village Samaipata again at 1,600 meters, we found the Finca La Víspera with Dutch owners with a beautiful pitch and finally tolerable temperatures. As Pieter the friendly owners are strongly advised against to 9 kilometers away El Fuerte de Samaipata to take the camper in the morning we took a taxi. The track was then actually nothing for Burro, too steep and narrow curves. The taxi driver made us aware of the face of the Indian on the mountain that we were alone probably overlooked. A certain similarity to that of Viracocha in Ollantaytambo was not to be overlooked.
Samapata is a very impressive facility, which from the time 800 BC is and was founded by the Mojocoyas and Chan . It was probably a cult and sacrifice. By 1,300 AD captured the wild, from Paraguay Guarani immigrant the area and intermarried with the Khan to the people of Chiriguanos. Our guide brought us close the facility with sound knowledge clearly. Here the great rock pyramid, designated so-called Centro Cermonial with channels for blood sacrifice, Chicha etc.
on the as an altar piece, we can still see the fragments of a jaguar, who was the Khan as a deity ( which the indigenous people not?).
made by 1400, the Incas Samaipata their easternmost outpost and completed the sanctuary with a sun temple, house of the elected women, trapezoidal niches for their mummies, water canals, terraced fields and stone houses. But they could defeat the Chiriguanos never completely just before the arrival of the Spaniards have the Chiriguanos the system is in overrun. The rest of the story is well known that the Spaniards had an easy game and the Inca empire to an end. A few years using the Spaniards as a fortress Samaipata, then brought back to the jungle terrain. For several years now is restored and the site of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From the battlements we had a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains and the Amboró National Park. The mountain in the center is Muela del Diablo (back teeth of the devil) and behind it is the endless Amazon basin, which for us due to lack of roads is not available. The sight of Muealas reminded me again of my heavily infected tooth and I was feverish so slowly against a dentist appointment. First, however, was unfortunately no time.
The taxi driver had been waiting for 1 ½ hours for us and brought us back to the place. At the ford, we took a short photo stop on the road again and were glad not to Burro to have been.
Famished, we arrived at the location. Finca La Víspera offers ecological food straight from the garden and my salad was a show, including the teapot with the mint tea. Whoever gets no appetite is to blame.
Because of the proximity to the National Park Abroró we contemplated the Kurzabstecher there. The high in all guide books and also from the Dutch promised Don Gilberto was quickly organized as a driver and guide. Both guides and vehicles, however, were a bit long in the tooth.
we thought until then, the city tour of La Paz with its 1,000 meters of altitude was no longer to beat, we have now learned better. Also today we had to deal with approximately the same height difference, but on an even shorter distance and on narrow, bumpy donkey paths. Years of experience and careful driving by Don Gilberto brought us slowly but surely secular Baumfarnwald of La Yunga .
went from here to continue only on foot. The warm, dry Weter was over. This cloud forest was announced. On a 3 1/2stündigen hike on winding roads, only to recognize Don Gilberto, some of which he had to widen with the machete, we were able to experience the beauty of the surroundings. Bromeliads of various kinds on almost every tree.
flowers in all shapes
and colors.
driven thanks to the moisture, the fern trees is increasing. Only from the animal world, we were disappointed, but we heard all kinds Vogler chirp and twitter. However, they were through the green foliage from view so that we do not manage it wanted to explore. Yet we have this trip lot of fun.
We now come to an alternative program, we said goodbye to temporary La Víspera and we were on the way to Valle Grande, at short Zeitz to walk in the footsteps of Che Guevara. Again, it was to, indeed, paved, but rough roads to get into the air. 120 kilometers it was lonely in the mountains. At the entrance of the 5,000 village inhabitants Valle Grande greeted us a colossal statue of Christ. Gilermo Don had given us the advice to ask for Doña Juanita because of a parking space after. She was also very kind, but unfortunately, we adjusted altitude, not by the gate. So we had initially nothing left but to go to the Plaza to check with the police and then just to park at the Plaza. Since we did not like and so we went on foot to climb to the Mirador, where there should be a restaurant with a German owner, who also was a witness to the events in Valle Grande, however. There was the German owner is not more clearly than had to be very old indeed. But a place in the courtyard of the restaurant, we got yet. Later, it knocked on our door, and small group German was before it. You live here and we were eating in the restaurant. They offered us a seat at, but since we Burro now had once tortured by this hill, we wanted to stay here. We also liked the beautiful view of the town. We learned, however, now we have to do, just to visit everything. Because that was not explained in the guide books. So we made our way back to the Plaza to Casa de la Cultura. The were about to close and at the last minute we got a leader. This first went with us to the local hospital in his former Waschhaus the military in October 1967 found the dead Che Guevara has exhibited. intended to deter, the photo of the corpse laid out on the wash trough went around the world. But the opposite has been achieved, not least because of this photo Che was an icon of revolutionary romanticism.
Then we put all of us in a taxi and drove to a fenced private grounds. Here you will find the grave of Tamara (Tania) Bunke , German girlfriend of Che Guevara
and other members of the guerrilla group Joaquín
order not to create sanctuary, were the bodies of Che Guevara and some of his colleagues in addition to the flight path of Valle Grande buried. They were 30 years as missing. In July 1997, undermined the military it again. Fidel Castro took his old companion Che to Cuba and established him on Oct 08, 1997, 30 years after his death, a mausoleum. In Valle Grande today remember plaques on the original site
around which a museum was built, times change
The guide promised us for the next day a knowledgeable local taxi drivers get to , us even further into the remote hinterland to La Higuera, the village was to bring the execution. Right on time at 9:00 this clock was there, he had a spare tire as a precaution on the roof, crossed themselves (for a Insurance was so worried, too) and you're able to walk the journey. Still only 60 kilometers lay before us. The washed-out road, with their steep slopes was not exactly exhilarating. Especially us, the driver also reported that two days ago here was a car plunged into the abyss. Well thank you! Many cars are not met in this seclusion. Again we were made aware of an image on the mountain, this time the face of the dog. It was really good in itself be seen.
missing in all of Bolivia signs, a process here where lack sufficient roads almost was not possible, there were these signs abound.
The taxi driver asked us to be able to do something personal. For this, a detour of 5 minutes would be required. We agreed, however we had soon discovered that 5 minutes are relatively in Bolivia. That was what was now only a donkey path, but the car makes its way somehow. He wanted a man who was not there and he took us to school !!!!!!!
From the living room of a teacher he acknowledged some clothes and shoes in his trunk.
Intrigued, we asked to see the classroom may be. Since the Vacation time in Bolivia, was of course not a student there. We were a little shocked by the (cautiously expressed) simplicity of the room. It has not even Columb, looked like the home of our sponsor child Sandra Mercedes. Where was the teacher, then, was my next question? A bit embarrassed, we told the taxi driver, the teacher he was. We learned that he has 8 students and a teacher Bolivianos 2000 (200, - Euros) earns in a month. To feed his family, he just had to go on holiday taxi. There is much in disarray in Bolivia.
Back on the road back, he showed us a hill, here the cap Che of the call. Someone had put even the star in the middle.
We passed Pucara, the only significant town on the route. Again, a little state help would be urgently needed. The Indigenous population has high hopes for its president Evo Morales, who on 6 December will be selected again for sure. We have realized that we are here in forgotten regions.
1967, involved in the area of Yuro ravine the guerrillas of military and CIA in a hopeless struggle and arrested. Our original plan to immigrate into the gorge we had to give up because it started to rain heavily at one time and it was steep and slippery down. So we made our last stop at the memorial stones guerrillas shot, then before we reached the hamlet of La Higuera .
The only existing place from 20 families over 40 years ago was the scene of the execution of Che Guevara and the first thing we see his larger than life statue.
The mother of a taxi driver living here and was a contemporary witness, as it was 21 years old. She shows us pictures tapped from this period, where some residents can be seen along with Che. We also learn that the village has suffered greatly as to be here between the lines. There have been many deaths and 80 families from the former, many fled. Who has held for the guerrillas, was shot by the military and who has kept the military from the guerrillas. A young, but nearly toothless woman came with the key to the former school. Here the wounded Che was executed by the military and now it is a museum. Just 4-5 on the day visitors come here, mostly from Argentina. Only on 8 October, the anniversary of the death of the tourist flow. We are looking for a while around here and we do then little depressed again on the way back, Valle Grande. It is pouring rain and our taxi driver crosses himself again. He then says, now it is dangerous, but we know that without him. The area has it just in itself, more dangerous than when the guerrillas can not be.
Back in Valle Grande, we shall issue the teachers and taxi drivers our remaining stocks of drawings, crayons, paint boxes, crayons, etc. from. We know that things come in his sad school children to the right. It was a long and very memorable day for us. If you can take a look behind the scenes, not just see a lot longer as rosy as it sometimes has the transfigured appearance. The next day we drive back to Samaipata and I can still go to the dentist in the late afternoon. My root inflammation has worsened, but the dentist can help and I feel in good hands. Somehow I must always remember the young woman, toothless and have once again pleased and grateful to be able to live a different life.
visit the next morning we still have the small museum in the place where the most notable is the beautiful courtyard.
visit the next morning we still have the small museum in the place where the most notable is the beautiful courtyard.
Back in Santa Cruz we arrived again in the world of luxury. It is red hot and we enjoy the privilege of three pools on the grounds of the Automobile Club of Bolivia all to ourselves alone.
0 comments:
Post a Comment