Saturday, January 30, 2010

Minivans With Built In Tables

Visiting friends in Bahia

Mercil and Jeronymo (the two motor home driver, who we met in Peru and Bolivia) had us on their ranch near Porto Seguro / invited Bahia and Bahia was a target of us anyway, we wanted to take this opportunity once the life of a Fazenda know. But by then it was still very, very many Km to drive. So first we had all the way back to Guanh ã handle it. Continue on road until bearable again Gov. Valdaras and Teófilo Otoni . Despite almost unbearable heat in the camper was Bernd no longer slow down and wanted to create more kilometers. So it came as it had hardly on the BR 418, there was nothing other than beautiful scenery. Neither traffic nor places, let alone adequate accommodation places for us. Even the beautiful mountains were not in our guide yet for the map with us. They would in any other country determined sanctuaries Aboriginal been.



Finally, a gas station! However, does the clock at 22.00. What could we do, sometimes it gets dark? We decided to bite the bullet and stay there. What we should happen here in the solitude of that? A police car arrived and the police were not our idea. You never know who in the night here comes so everything is over and what ideas he would then expire. So we had another 30 miles and take a little off the main road into town Carlos Chagas to the police station. Right next to the station was a huge bus parking lot, where we should stay. The premiere was in South America. Since the first time one night at a police station. While it was already completely dark, but the heat was no less, and so we set our chairs outside, and stay up half the night sitting there. We had covered 600 kilometers, it was a tight daily output.

Even the next day was not much better. Driving was announced and at Ibiranhém we finally reached the state Bahia . Now it was even hotter and we could not even drink as much as we sweat out again. When we the Atlantic coast and the resort Alcobaça finally arrived, had our body temperature exceeded the boiling point. What we are doing now for an air conditioner in the camper.

was sorry, the only camp in the village closed in spite of high season, but in the parking lot of the beach Local Cata Vento we found a home and to electricity and water. Once we went to the sea in the shade and then the wind did the rest of his order from us to make up for less normal people. Here we stayed a few days. photograph



beach walks, shelling and coral were our favorite activities.



Furthermore evening walks in the place and of course, sunsets. This time at the lighthouse.



Sunday was the way the rest over, there were at the booth not even room for a towel. The Brazilian families with grandparents, children and other relatives crowded every possible angle. We have enjoyed the spectacle of our comfortable chairs. Monday we wanted

were sufficiently recovered, we proceed again to new achievements. We drew the Parque National de Marinho Albrolhos . In this part of the Atlantic have the humpback whales and their young, according to guide should be there by December. Maybe we should have still good luck and a few stragglers were still visible. So we headed to Caravelas because then take the boats to the National Park. In Caravelas we had to even recognize that they are somehow not adjusted to individual tourists. No

evidence of the information centers or cruise provider. Only the historic center was identified as such and more run down as historic.

First we went to the Instituto Baleia Jubart . In this research station we were supposed to get information and there was a movie about the whales. Information zero said, albeit after a long search an employee of the English. The whales are gone since November, no chance to see them. The DVD player remote control was not to be found and so the DVD could not be played in English. After three people were trying to program the device, they gave up and we got given the DVD so we can look at our own laptop. Then we drew the employees on a piece of paper a rough map, so that we can find the Agency for the boat rides (the snorkeling tour would also be very beautiful without whales) and the information center. On the snorkel tour we did not then, it was 100, - € per person not without whales interesting for us and colorful fish we have seen more than enough in Bonaire. But at least the information center, we wanted to visit yet. Could not find it, despite drawing, there was no indication where it could be. As soon as we stopped at the roadside to give us the drawing again just to see a car already had a family from Sao Paulo next to us. The children of the family were proud to learn English at school and English, and try it to us now. Thousands of questions are answered and had a camper visit was also inside.



The family then went in together with us the Info Center. A house without a name designation with staff without interest. Only after repeated insistence we opened the door to a room with a pitiful exhibition. The outrageous demand for the film about the reserve bothered really, but our guide insisted. Reluctantly, the DVD player started up and we could watch a film in Portuguese, with much talk and little pictures. Our guide apologized many times for us, in São Paulo would happen to us no such thing. There is much to do in Brazil. The good that they and not we have said. You say goodbye to many words from us and then make their way to their destination. Six days they were now on the road to São Paulo to Natal to come and still found the time to take care of a few foreigners. This is again a great example of how helpful and friendly the Brazilian.

We drove back to our beautiful place in Alcobaça and saw us in the evening rather than in the wild whales in the really nice movie, and since we was way too hot again, we decided then also have another 2 days here to stay.

the meantime, we had several e-mail contact with Mercil and we were now expected to slow on the ranch. So it went on the road again, this time for Porto Seguro. About Prado and Itamraju (again with peculiar Felsforamtionen)


we reached Eunápolis and then Arraial d'Ajuda , the place where we should meet with Mercil because they feared we could not find the ranch alone. Around 17:00 clock we were together then the trip to the ranch at (Mercdilene went ahead in the car). 50 km journey now lay before us. First, another 20 kilometers on asphalt, then before Trancoso in a roundabout by a cattle gate on a bad road. There were only a landscape, cows and insane traffic. Mercil us had been forewarned. The people here go to the beach and come at this time back and a breakneck speed. Dust clouds are hazy, the view, and our interior resembled a desert landscape slowly. Initially there were a few access roads to ranches to see. Here is a particularly striking.


The piste was getting worse and was often a steep climb or descend. Makeshift bridges were crossed. Then the tire pressure alarm device that puncture. In Itapuranga, an Indian village there was a Borracharia, but no tools or light (in the meantime it was pitch dark). Bernd was able to help all, and as the tire was down, there was again a valve. But here there was no change and so had the spare tire be mounted. The last 9 miles we felt our forward virtually only. No longer was the least visible from the track or the environment. We were just glad to finally have arrived. But first we had this information, or stop at Konstancia and Jeronymo., The parents of Jeronymo. We grade our tires, they would bring it in for repair after Eunópolis (70 kilometers). In the home of Mercil Jeronymo and there was a late dinner and a shower. One of the guest rooms offer we refused, we just feel most comfortable in Burro. As our hosts have to get up at 4:00 clock in the morning, we went to sleep soon after been warned not to be, to leave the camper any longer because now fit two large dogs (German Shepherd and Rottweiler / Doberman mix) on everything.

When we awake at 8.00 clock be added, Jeronymo his day's work behind them and we have breakfast together. Then we look around and really admire the big house.


Bernd Burro is under a big tree with lots of shadows and small, very hard fruits that bombard us every now and then loudly.


Jeronymo now wants to show us his ranch. That is just measly 2,000 hectares. We gasp for air and we try somehow to imagine that size space. In thought we are drawing a circle around our community association and think about how many people live here in Germany on such a surface. Jeronymo assures us that the size of the ranch is mediocre. There are some many times larger plantations.

What does the modern Fazendabesitzer to control his country? A horse, a jeep? No, he was a small plane and a landing path is right next to the house. Since he can only carry one passenger, I let Bernd precaution times the lead. One must survive, yes. Bernard comes back safe and says how beautiful it was, therefore, must I also know if I will or not. But since I know Jeronymo and knows that he is dealing with its machines very carefully and correctly, I take my flight will not miss it.


From the air you can see very clearly the different economic pillars of the ranch. Here is a papaya plantation. We learn that the trees grow 1 year, 2 years to bring revenue and are then precipitated again. After that can no longer be planted papayas for 5 years. Then here are growing eucalyptus trees that are either pulpwood or lumber.


What initially looks to us like grapes turns out on closer examination to be passion fruit planting. The second type of fruit that is grown and marketed.


But of course the main source of income are cattle. Wherein the greater part ca.1.900 beef cattle are, however, there are still 150 milk cows. Of course, horses, mules, pigs and chickens, but only for personal use.


Then we fly to the coast. Coconut plantations as far as the eye. Agua de Coco (the water of green coconut) is a very popular drink in Brazil and just yesterday, sold Jeronymo 6000 coconuts, which are already in the truck on the way to Sao Paulo.


live with this the super-rich coast of Brazil. CEOs, famous football stars and everything else shall have money and name. Everything is private land and the beaches only accessible by boat or plane. Good that we have just one aircraft there and so does Jeronymo a small landing at the deserted beach.

After a short stay we rise again in the air and float back to the house. Due to some violent gusts hovers in my stomach heights are not good for him, and after landing I for a while bad. Nevertheless, I regret not to be flown.

Inwischen Zaza has directed the cook lunch and the table is set for us (how many people come to?).


afternoon Jeronymo to handle business and Mercil moves us to a beach. To this end it goes on winding country roads 15 km through the countryside. We arrive at Rio Caraíva where we have to translate the same boat.


On the other hand, we have the tiny town Caraíva achieved. He was first an Indian village, as fishermen have settled here and now he is firmly in the hands of the tourists. is


Since Caraíva on a narrow peninsula, there is no traffic and no proper roads. The so-called main street is a dirt road lined with tiny hostels, souvenir shops and restaurants.


come here via a main? The place is remote and difficult for strangers to find. The closest we could imagine a Hippykolonie here. But no sooner reached the beach we are wrong. A Large number of tourists is gathered. The river flows, amazingly, still clear and clean into the sea, making it an ideal Badepaltz for young and old. Here you have the choice to swim in salt water or water in the foot. What more could you want?


Back on the ranch in the evening found the extended family and also to make more friends. Mercil be translated as well as he goes into English, so it works with the understanding more bad than good and yet we have much to laugh. For example, the Brazilians can not even imagine that you can not almost every day with his father, mother, siblings, uncles and aunts are together. A festival is always a family event and already the number of members is sufficient to fill a hall. Thus, also decided the same this evening, tomorrow to spend a barbecue lunch by the sea. Oh yes, our tires has since also Eunápolis back repaired.

After breakfast, the cars are packed. Zaza had suffered a lot of work to prepare everything. Then it's back on dirt tracks over rough and smooth and without any regard to the direction of a gate. Here is a tiny house and neighbors (he's one and only is the door guard), we will open the gate. We are on private land. Jeronymo knows the proprietor and can with his whole clan here go to the sea. This must be imagined: It's Sunday, we are Bahia and have a beach almost all to ourselves alone. Only a few children of farm workers of the landowner are outside of us still here. Again, a small, clean river flowing through the mangroves and is a warm plunge pool.


After we have a little refreshed, Bernd and I do a beach walk. The men, meanwhile, directed the family (top hole in the sand, fence, ready to use) the grill. Time and again we find beautiful places to swim


and along the way our house with a dream location. By the way, the cost here, even millions of Euros. First, because many Europeans, thus making a hut, second, because there is always a lot of land around it, and thirdly, because you need lots of workers. From farm workers to the armed guard service. So somehow we must then also spend every holiday here would be stupid in the long run right?

When we come back Jeronymo is already restless. We were long gone and he was afraid we would be something happens, also the food is ready.

After they have once lined again, we can only spend the rest of the lying Nachmittgs.

at 16.00 clock is of a general move. We drive back to make us fresh and then all go to Konstancia for dinner. Have we not eaten, the first place? If it continues like this!

Mercil has an appointment tomorrow at 8:00 clock to physiotherapy in Arraial d'Ajuda and we want to take this opportunity to us to see the place again. Moreover, the need to introduce you've once. Because of a physical therapy 50 km journey and it takes account of the slopes 1 ½ hours. For here, but this is all very normal.

Even at 6.30 clock we have to start driving. Just in time we are in Arraial d'Ajuda and dismissed Mercil to their appointment. Of 11.00 clock we meet again. Much to see there is not here. First we see the main square with the church.


Some nice gardens and facades are visible.


Then comes the purely touristic part. Expensive hotels, expensive shops, expensive restaurants. Arraial lives entirely on tourism, because there are some very nice beaches. We will save us the way to the beach, we have beautiful beaches around the plantation and especially lonely.


We are faster than expected with the place through and there is also still a storm that has washed himself. Because it has not rained for so long, here is glad not to the water, we each only. On the way back to the ranch, we can see how the already bad road to the left trap is regulated. On the slopes, even the four-wheel drive vehicles come to fishtail. Relationships begin to slip and we only think how to get out of here? Mercil says just because you stay just as long until the road is passable again.

But on the same day, the sun shines again with full force, and the water dried up so quickly as it came. It makes yet another visit. An elderly couple from Belo Horizonte business partners, of Jeronymo will stay a few days. do

Bernd morning and I make a 10 mile walk along the coast. Mercil originally wanted to go along, but they can not alone make the visit, yes. We make it right, we may need a Portuguese break.

early around 8:00 clock Jeronymo drives us to a branch of the road to Caraíva. He has sold 600 cattle yesterday and that means in the next 4 days, a lot of work for him and his workers. The animals must be captured and herded together and loaded onto trucks. So he has this morning a little hastily. He explains again his way, along the sea. We should be careful, it would go very lonely. On the narrow footpath


we reach the Rio Caraívo , we have to cross this time, but we turn left past the mouth.


is still the bank empty.


But soon we see translation on the opposite shore a boat with hikers and shortly afterwards again is 5 people. So lonely so we will not go, and how Mercil Jeronymo had feared.

It's wonderful here. Although the sun is glowing again, but every now and then we go to refresh yourself into the sea or swimming in the lagoons along the route. The water is wonderfully warm and clean. Now and then we pass by a private entrance. Here with padded deck chairs on the beach and canoes in the lagoon. Of course, no lack of reference to private property and hot dog.


After a brief stop at a booth with Agua de Coco is serious. We have to leave the beach because a cliff in the way and climb a hill. This is very tiring in the heat and also have now distributed the walker. Most of them are already rotten in the sand, only we are brave on our way.

A whole lot we go through the area and still hope to be on the right path. Although there are signs, but is partially rotted and is located appropriately enough on Earth. Now it is actually a little scary here. But the first person we meet we confirmed we are on the right track. After a total of 3 hours of walking, it goes back down to the sea, but really we do not know whether we are in Espello or not. Here we will pick the family again, but still no one to see. We see several turtles paddling in the sea and are distracted for a while. Here comes We already Mercil contrary. We need to go a long way until we meet the rest of the family. Since we are supplied with water and a Snack.

Then relax in the water called for.


for such a long beach walk, Ms. nevertheless deserves a reward or not? Moreover, from what the Indians are to live here, if not from the tourists?


Today we are brave and try the fried cheese seller. In the small bucket is red-hot charcoal. The cheese is put on a stick, grilled and tastes delicious.


wonder We know that there are to eat no meat. In addition, somehow missing the men. Jeronymo have a job, we know, but where are all the others? We pack up, we distributed over two pick ups (Bernd and I can sit inside, the rest to the loading areas), and off they go to the home of Konstancia and there are also men. While the table is addressed for lunch, we'll take a quick bath in the community tub. Today we had still not enough water.

soon as I'm back from the tub, it does a loud bang, a side wall and burst out all the water is instantly gone.


Well I was out there, otherwise I would have to determine where the blame. But the hard fruits of the tub can not be it.


But all things that can sink the spirits and so we proceed just for lunch. Once again we are amazed at how so uncomplicated, can now abfüttern least 17 people. There

a shadow, it then but still, the men are ready for the hunt. Dogs are placed on the loading platforms, networks ready set and got the guns out of the house. There are hunted Carpivaras and partridges be. Ironically, my beloved Carpivaras. Not only is hunting the farm workers, the Jacaré, monkeys, parrots and parakeets and eat (which are indeed partially protected but who cares it there?), Now also have the Carpivaras believe. At dinner, I inquire gently to the hunting success. They have had no luck, not an animal could do it. Bad luck also!


So we not put down roots here, we finally decide to move on. Mercil wants us still with a special dinner, the Zaza today is to prepare bait for us, but still remain at least a day but our mind is made, we drive today, plus we almost burst with a loud blowout at the seams.

It was a great time here and we are Mercil, Jeronymo and the other family members very grateful that we were allowed to participate in their lives. It will certainly be a lasting and beautiful memory for us. However, we are on a journey and a lot want to see more of Brazil. Mercil we think would be a little tramp and she has been so right.

The track is bone dry again and Burro and his driver manages easily the difficult part to the asphalt road. We must back up Eunápolis then again on the to drive BR 101. Motorists on the road to give us characters that we can not really point and we continue to Parque Nacional do Monte Pascoal . In the parking lot, we note that we again have a puncture. Of all of the tire when the pressure sensor is broke. But first time the park is on the agenda. There are only two possibilities: a guide to the mountain that is very demanding and takes hours or a 700-meter-long path through the jungle. But what we will probably see at 700 meters. Although it should be here very rare species, but since we can not remain in the park without a guide anyway, which is probably nothing are to be completed with the observation of animals, especially as the track still in the car. Because of the flat foot we travel only a short distance into the park and then ask our leaders to join us on foot. He also agrees. The understanding is unfortunately quite slow, but the young Indigo tries hard with sign language.


We see trees with huge roots,


large spiders


and interesting plants.


However, unfortunately no animals and birds we can hear and see. The trees and their roots are indeed worth seeing, but our passion happens to be the animal world.



So we quickly left the park and take care of our tires. It is yet another way valve. Slowly they would all be replaced, I've lost track of. Then we drive a few miles until we discover shortly after Teixeira de Freitas a good gas station and call it a day.

The next day, drive 'em only. We go through the state Espirto Santo . Here it should add 500 kilometers of coastline. But we do not continue wasting our time at stands. So we go to speak, only through this state and you would pass in the dark on an x-arbitrary, very drab and dirty gas station just after Campos dos Goitacazes, already in the state of Rio de Janeiro . Although we had advised Mercil to spend the night at a gas station with Flecha hotel, but unfortunately we could not reach it more in the dark.

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