Sunday, November 14, 2010

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of the royal cities of the Middle and High Atlas to the foothills of the desert.

What a place of peace is the campsite and good enough to eat the oranges and tangerines see here in the immediate neighborhood.

We have company by the two nice Bremer, Ulrike and Adri. You already a couple of weeks in Morocco on the road and so there is a lively exchange.

enjoy a day off here and we are very reach us via Skype, to our delight, several calls from friends who see that we are on the web. Another advantage of our sticks. But unfortunately, it works very humorous. Sometimes excellent, sometimes less well off and not at all. So if you want to call us, let not discourage you, we are happy and at some point it certainly works. Then we are back on the road. The first destination on the route Volubilis is at the foot of Jabal (mountain) Zerhoun , the largest Roman site in Morocco. The huge area is well attended, although a proper information is still being built (or even years in construction, who knows so well?). Guides offer their services and who may want to explain here every stone lassen.Viel imagination is required, because the finds are in the museum in Rabat, the stones usually installed somewhere, but the general view is somehow impressive. Here we see the pitiful remains of Caracalla - arch .

On the columns of the Basilica to nesting storks. The symbol of Volubilis, but they left their nests. A sign of the imminent demise can not be, under the city's already gone.

There are some very well-preserved mosaic floors. Here we see the twelve tasks of Hercules. A task of Hercules, we now know since Tanger already, the rest would probably serve again the reading of Greek mythology.

Now let us devote a little of the history of our host country and to be one of the holy cities. Mulay Idris here is a Type substitute, for the pilgrimage to Mecca. The city is built between two hills, the oldest of today's Morocco and was established in 788 of that same Mulay Idris. Long time no infidel was allowed to enter this place and would not even until a few years in it. Already at the entrance, we are literally assaulted by smugglers who want to bring us to the shrine. We have to find some trouble in the steep site parking. Persistently been a would-be guides waiting at our door. We shake it off and make us alone on the road. It is not easy to find in this very narrow and dirty streets cope. There are no signs, why, since all the leaders would work. Can not even ask for directions you will be expected to respond directly to a tip. More by chance we see this in the guidebooks as a special (because some) praised green minaret with the many characters.
The tomb and real sanctuary of Mulay Idris is one big construction site and the interior, we may as infidels not to enter anyway. So we make our way to the observation deck at least a look from top to grab the attachment. We meet a couple from Germany who are clearly tired of the place because they have nothing can be found, already had to make some Dirhams loose and now just want to get away. Because of the constant harassment we are now looking stubborn and sometimes ourselves to the Top occur particularly heavily laden donkeys to evasive and in constant danger in feces and dirt. Ongoing follow us shouting: Terrazza, Terazza??. We find it alone. What a sight! Waste as far as the eye and a miserable view of the green roof of the mausoleum. Dirty children begging for candy or Dirhams and we just leave this ugly place.

The royal city of Meknes is a real bright spot and although large city to visit good for us. It was founded by notorious for his cruelty and ostentation ruler Mulay Ismail . 30 000 slaves were busy to build his palace and created stones of Volubilis here. No wonder then that today we see only fragments. As thanks for it then some of the slaves were alive incorporated into the walls. A total of 40 kilometers of walls were built, but after the death of the ruler fell, and even much of the palace is now receive almost nothing. We first see the entrance to the mausoleum Mulay Ismail .

the grave space itself we may enter once again, but this time at least take a look through a window niche. Mulay Ismail is said to have had 500 women and about 1,000 children. His hobbies have included public mutilations and unprofessional dental care to courtiers who had fallen from grace, yet its grave a holy place.

Richly decorated the room in front of the grave, the unbelievers may also enter here.

Another landmark of the town (which, moreover, again UNESCO World Heritage Site ) is the Bab el Mansour , should that be the best goal of Morocco. We believe you.
The Place El Hedim just shows a snake charmer's art and of all his fans he is 100% transparent accuracy just me destined to get a constrictor as a necklace. As we are quickly look away as he can.

Contact us, we would prefer to nicer things. At these levels it means to be brave, and look only to succumb to the temptation.
But the hearty stuff we allow the water to our mouth.

For hours we could still stay here. However, we pressed a little time. The camp of the place was closed and we lack an alternative. So we make only a short walk to the depths of the souks. We were impressed with the offer of some yarn dealer.

What do you do well because of so many roles obviously synthetic yarn? Here we see the puzzle solution, borders. Borders in all colors and shapes with the help of these strange looking machines made. You can also choose from a border using a pattern catalog, and then kick off the workers.

As much as we would have stayed in Meknes. But now hasten to say it, because we still have to go a long way towards Fez there to get to the campsite Diamant Vert . It is time again pitch dark when we arrive there and then it begins to rain yet. Noisy lures us once again to the outside. 40 vehicles are breaking, all Dutch. They wanted to hold a rally from Amsterdam to Dakar and, like all failed at the moment on the border with Mauritania. There There is currently no way through for foreigners and so the group on the way home. To 1.00 clock in the night they celebrated party, then the rain is so strong that they pull back at last in their cars and rest there.

It rained all night without interruption and at 6.00 clock throw the Dutch to their engines. We flee the area, which undoubtedly has the advantage that we now have plenty time for the visit of Fez and the early morning hour traffic in downtown is still bearable, too. Our plan is to stand on one of the guarded car parks, and in the night Fez to spend as they should have such a special atmosphere. But the Government has decided to build a canal. Which means all the roads and many parking lots are torn up and sink into the mud because of the rain. We look for the parking lot near the Bab Boujeloud land, but because of the same features (bus station, cemetery, large parking lot with trucks), first of all of us do not realize exactly at the opposite end. The parking lot is full of trash and cruel muddy. From camper to the road we are already completely filthy. On the road runs is not much better, as she is torn as I said. We are looking for the Bab and sent further and further until we suspicious to be anything can not vote here. Finally we found someone who can explain to us that we are on the wrong side of town. So get into a taxi and it is finally Bab Boujeloud , the starting point for sightseeing and a large, paved parking in front.

into nothingness as famous in the medina. It's still raining, but at least they are not here torn streets. Once again we are approached from all sides. They want to lead us, we want to sell us carpets, etc. Hardly Bernd can shoot in peace times the entrance to a madrasa.
A glance through the alley on one of the minarets.

are infinitely many wells here, mostly in the vicinity of mosques and many with UNESCO funds restored.

Some restaurants look like in a fairy tale. In this one should be able to eat well but also very expensive.

Because of the rain, but also because of the constant harassment we come to the conclusion that the Medina of Fez Although somewhat larger, but in its way no different that we have seen so far as the Medina . Someone will here are selling and what our needs are met. Only the district Dyer interests us now. To accelerate the procedure, we can lead us, knowing that we will end up in a leather shop. The tanners and dyers pools are designed so that they can be seen only from the roof of a house and the house is always a sales shop. Three floors up, we must reach at last on the roof. Usually, it stinks terribly, because the pool Gerber (light color) are filled with a mixture of pig manure (Where the herhaben the home here?) And bovine urine. Only when it rains the smell is somewhat bearable. What we do have a chance with the rain today. The poor men down there have to endure every day. The bright colors are of natural origin such as saffron, poppy flowers and indigo. For a while we watch the hustle and bustle. Then we have to go through the stalls below. The leather produced here is very soft and supple. Nevertheless, we stand firm and not buy anything.
What was that again? Selling eggs, steel processing and dye are despised professions and always located on the outskirts of Medina. So soon after a goal the lookout and we are out. We wade through garbage and mud within 10 minutes to the camper. It should probably be that we have parked at the other end. No more thoughts them to spend a night in Fez. If the roads are paved once again, it does not rain and we had more than 5 hours of sleep, Fez is certainly a place of dreams. We have just caught on the wrong foot. It is still early enough in the mountains, across Ifrane the resort of the rich with a summer residence of the king to go to just before Azrou. Meanwhile, we have dense fog and must be extremely careful at the entrance to the campsite Amazight not to miss. Here we are still in the rain under the fruit trees in peaceful tranquility. Hassan, the owner has spent many years in Cologne, speaks perfect German and promises us from morning Sunshine. In fact, we are awakened by it and move onto the ForĂȘt de Cedres . The cedar forest is famous for its huge cedars and an attraction is the Cedre Gouraud with its 40 meters height, which is now dead.

No reason to fret, as there are around a few other large specimens.

course we are not just for the extra cedars came here. Lures us something quite different. The intention here is to even greater populations of Barbary apes. We walk through the grounds and can not find any. A young Man who wants to sell us a horse ride, has a show and takes us through the forest in the sleeping area of the monkey. Even from a distance we see a man sitting in the tree. Because our joy is great.
I've ch inserted as a precaution a few peanuts and put them on the floor at my feet. Even the horde is there, but only the boss can eat them. He shows his teeth and the Horde is back in the trees, then he takes me nuts very carefully by hand. Only one dominant female animal may still near me. While the boss is busy again with the crackdown on his clan, she takes me on Leg and gets very quickly too. " She also tried but actually snatch my bag. When our peanuts depleted, we are not interesting, and now seeks the clan fungi.

We had our fun. Make a short stop in Azrou and pass endless olive groves up to an unnamed lake. Water in this arid region just always fascinating.

From Ain Leuh we are in the Middle Atlas Mountains. The places on the roadside are pathetic and the dwellings are part only of planning. Hordes of children begging besiege our way. Today is 11.11. and the Rhineland, the Carnival begins. Because it makes sense to now seem to start with the Kamellenverteilen. But the children are horrible. If they get something, they always want more. They cling to the windows or trying to climb on the wheels while they hold a hell of a noise. A highlight is a real roadblock. Several children are crossing the street, and the rest by the roadside and continue impossible. There's only even list. We throw the sweets as much as possible in the area. Since they have to run and we step on the gas. So we come today not progressing well and for the environment, we have no eyes. It scares us every time you come dwellings in sight. Slowly, we wonder whether they do this at any car Sun Even the adult characters give, they want to eat cigarettes, or some money. If far and no people in sight we stop and look at the really quite beautiful surroundings a little more closely, but really by then. We have finally reached the city Khénifra . Lack of a better way we stay on a parking the Gendarmerie Royale . The police assure us that we can stand there and worry another camper with the French is still there. Not a single picture we have today made for sheer begging stress. Very early in the morning we drive. We pass Kasba Tadla- and Oulad Yaich takes some getting over. We're stuck in traffic. It's sheep market and thousands of people are traveling here.

Do you remember why we had to necessarily buy a blanket? Thus, the Weber for the holiday on 18 November his family to slaughter a sheep. Who has the money for purchases of one or more sheep. Everyone should be able to eat meat that day and who has a sheep to where none have give something of the flesh. Thus, masses of sheep that is shipped home. The animals seem to know what because it belongs to, and behave accordingly stubborn. They are worn

loaded onto wheelbarrows (you can see the extended family, the anticipation downright) transported

or in handcarts.
The owners of three-wheeler vans make the business of their lives. We see masses of them are being driven towards the city. On the bed here are: The father, mother with baby, grandmother, and as much as two sheep. Or so they all look small vehicles. This is the pure life. Because it makes us out of nothing, that we are only slowly . Headway There are really enough to see. Until the holiday, the animals are now kept on the balcony or in the shower if necessary, depending on available space.

In Oulad Ayad the branch comes to the Cascades d'Ouzoud, our destination. We climb back strong in the air and the vegetation is sparse. Only a small cactus growing on the cliffs. not

A bridge over the Oud Ouzud el-Abid is very reassuring, but keep us out.

Beautiful is the sun Gorges de l'Ouzud-el-Abid.

In Ozoud we find a nice spot on the Camping de la Nature. From there it is just a short walk to the main attractions of the area, the largest waterfall in Morocco. But first, a very ancient grain mill is open to visitors.

crashes in the gorge, the Oud el-Abid in three cascades 110 meters in depth (if it is because water). This is a sensation for the Moroccans, as the country is not exactly blessed with water.

But what is already a waterfall, when we can see monkeys. A horde of Barbary apes lives here in the mud walls. They are as bold as the children go. It is hardly peanuts, they are bold. The whole clan is upon us and a young one sets about to climb Bernd's leg. Since only the same list as helping with the children. Nuts and toss well run. Laughing and puffing so again we come up on the landing.
treat to reward us a delicious couscous, cooked by the wife of the campsite host and served in the camper. We hear SWR3 on web radio. We're right philistines.

Now we cross the High Atlas. Until Demnate we still have a good road, it is adventurous. First, the slopes are still covered with shrubs and cacti. The villages with houses in clay construction glue on the slopes not a bit of valuable farmland to waste.
Magnificent views of the Atlas mountains with his four-thousand are granted to us.

deserves the street but sometimes not the name. Any rainfall (in which years have you) have the flooring, and also destroyed bridges and many times must suffer Burro correctly. It also begged again. However, not nearly as aggressive as in recent days and we give back voluntarily and willingly. Four passes we have to overcome, which are highest in the Tizi-n- Outfi with 2,150 meters and the Tizi- n'Fedriate with 2185 meters.

Then we have reached after 8 hours and 250 kilometers Ouarzazate. From there camping we will do all sorts of Sun until we move towards the desert.

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