From Nasca it was on narrow, steep road uphill. Again and again had to be pressed to the horn to warn oncoming traffic. After 83 kilometers we were already at an altitude of 3,800 meters and on the Pampa Galeras . Here is a sanctuary and a research station for vicuña (of Germany was founded and paid for today by the Peruvian state over). Almost these animals were at risk of extinction. They can not be kept in captivity and were easily shot down, to get at the precious wool. The trade in vicuña wool is strictly prohibited. Only a few stores sell them by the state listzensierte allowed. Fortunately, live here again now 30,000 copies.
is hardly the reserve over, we see only llama and alpaca herds. On Abra Condorcena we exceed 4330 meters. The landscape is rough and only a few people live here. Unfortunately, we now have the joy of building site. There have been repeated delays because the roads are blocked for a short time. In a twisty section, we see from afar a camper. At an alternative location Mercil and Jeronymo wait from Brazil already on us. It is a funny conversation in English bumpy, but we enjoy it. We exchange tips along the way and get an invitation to their ranch in Porto Seguro, where we should be there after 15.01.2010.
Then it gets really hard. A yard-long construction site in front of us. About half an hour we have to wait until we can finally proceed. Between truck to truck, we sneak through Puquio . The village has no paved through road and the heavy trucks are hardly concerned about the tight corners, especially since that is still uphill. Of us, we do not talk anymore. It is to be hoped that Puquio in connection with street construction finally comes to a paved road through. At least now we realize that our destination, we can not reach, especially since now the only road back leads uphill. Past the Laguna Yaurihuri and the Abra Huashuaccasa 's 4,300 meters, then back down over Cotaruse to Chalhuanca at 2,900 meters. To our delight, we can discover here a 24-hour gas station and Bernd finally let go of the wheel. An hour later, it is pitch dark. There are 12 giant trucks drove into the square. They have brought their own heavily armed security guards. We ask ourselves, what have loaded these trucks well like? Us can be right, we are all equal mitbewacht and can sleep better.
The next morning, the world looks better again. Rested, we can enjoy the 135 km ride through the beautiful valley of the Río Pachachaca correctly.
but only up to the moment when we on a bridge, a bus full downhill on our track meets. Bernd was able to us only through the brakes and ride almost escape to the railing. By a hair it would have been the end of our trip. The coach has calmly continued his journey. goes from Abancay it steeply uphill. Now we go in the thickest fog. Which we lack today even for the better. Ascent and no visibility. Only at a walking pace to continue. Then at the height of 4,300 meters, the fog is finally with us, but it starts to snow softly. But soon the sun comes through and the mystery is over. Even at this level we still see the Campe immersion in the fieldwork. In Curahuasi we drive down into the gorge of the Río Apuímac just to get it right back into the air. In Limatambo we get our first taste of the Inca ruins at Tarawasi .
From a hill we have a beautiful view of Cusco.
we already know, on the way other travelers recommended Club Hotel, we got a beautiful place on grass, next to the pool. accompanied at every step, even when walking to the shower, by the two hard dangerous guard dogs.
The next day city tour was scheduled. As always, we started our tour at the Plaza de Armas . We rubbed our eyes. Was not the whole world in Cusco? What a hustle and bustle had We did not expect. Hardly penetrate into the cathedral, we were able to certainly not. She was filled for a service to the last seat.
Colonial houses with wooden balconies, and the Iglesia La Compañia and the entrance of the Universidad San Antonio Abad dominate the square.
ado, we escaped from the crowds to the Mercado Central San Pedro. Here we were almost only among the locals. As is so often fascinated us the sight of the many different varieties of maize.
for the umpteenth time, approached by a boy, we settled finally clean our shoes. The little guy was 7 years old and his hands were so dirty that he probably never again in life will get clean finger. He has four other siblings and shine shoes for the family to stay afloat. However, he has parents alive and not alone on the street, like so many other children here. We have of course the Gringopreis paid. When we went out and we turned around again we saw him disappear into smiling, the 5 Soles piece in the depths of his trousers. Its food for the day he had earned.
gave then at least the rest shoe cleaner, and so we could still the Inca stone with 12 corners look. The Incas have perfected the stone carving. All the stones fit together exactly and hold without mortar and the walls are earthquake safe. We were then driven only by the roads. Wedged between the hordes of tourists. Soon we also saw that here in Cusco, the times of low prices is over. Nevertheless, we received our dinner taste with llama meat.
The next day we visited the Convent of Santo Domingo . The Church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1950 and it came the walls of the Inca sanctuary Qoricancha to light. As always, had the Spaniards set with the stones of each building, a church on the Inca sites. Of course, the church was rebuilt, but the remains of the Inca sanctuary can be seen again.
Our guide takes us into the world of the Incas. How must it have looked here? The walls were covered with gold plates. Here was the residence of the Incas, Manco Capac godlike. From here, the capital of the Inca Empire, with its four districts was governed. Here was the center of the world. Bigger and richer than Rome. The perfect walls provided with niches, all filled with golden statues. The windows in such a way that the sun at certain times all brought to the beam. In the garden, there were gold and silver figures of every fruit, every tree and every animal has existed in the kingdom.
Here we see the replica of the once massive gold plate on which the creator god Viracocha and the many other revered gods were represented. All that was found on gold and silver here, was robbed by Pizarro and his men and melted into gold bars. Unique art objects of unimaginable value. We'd really be interested to know what became of all the gold and silver, which have carried the Spaniards from here.
In Museo de Arte Precolombino we can look at a few small finds of different cultures. It was also interesting to watch the weavers at their painstaking work.
In Callejón de Siete Culebras we actually wanted to photograph only the wall with the seven snake motifs, but the two Peruvians give their llamas from a nice location (of course for a small fee).
In Callejón de Siete Culebras we actually wanted to photograph only the wall with the seven snake motifs, but the two Peruvians give their llamas from a nice location (of course for a small fee).
the evening we enjoy ourselves still in Centro de Arte Qosqo native with a folklore show.
Cusco is beautiful, which has probably now got around. One million tourists last year were there and we feel almost as if here in the moment, all at once. We decide to continue, and a little more time in the Valle Sagrado to spend the Sacred Valley of the Incas. But first it's back up, and the fortress Saqsaywaman is on the agenda. Cuzco, the Inca had the shape of a puma and the fortress was the head. No one knows today what was once Saqsaywaman: fortress, place of worship or simply the head of the puma. In any case, everything is great. The size, the view, the walls and the sun gate. Everything built to withstand earthquakes. 20,000 should have built here for 70 years.
The outside corners are held by stones in epic proportions. No one knows how people did not know the the wheel in the layer 42-ton stones were moving. There were once towers. But since they were built of small stones, dragged the Spaniards they build off the many churches of Cusco it.
We started the difficult climb in the thin air, to see the so-called throne of the Inca from the top.
Nearby is the Qocha . A strange modulated monolithic block that is inside all hollow and provided with numerous labyrinths. He probably was a burial ground. Because I saw people running in it and then starved to death, the entrance for visitors is now locked.
After a few kilometers we come to the cult and hard place Q'engo . Again, the stones are of similar design as in Qocha, except that this system much larger.
There is only a small underground chamber, with a kind of seat for the priest. Above is a jagged hole in the rocks through which water or blood could be poured into the interior of the sanctuary.
What are the puppets of the tree we do not know. In any case, it is a nice photo opportunity, guiding us from the moment of our cultural program.
from water sanctuary Tambomachay we have a nice look back at the fortress Pukapukara , we have just visited.
The water shrine was probably a country seat of the Inca Tupak Yupanki and is always called for his water-filled basin, including the bath of the Inca.
An indigenous guards on the roadside their animals.
Now a winding descent into the valley of the Urubamba , the Valle Sagrado de los Incas . From above, we have a beautiful view of the town Pisaq .
Unfortunately, it is to visit the ruins already too late and therefore, since the parking lot in front is too steep (our hand brake has already given up her mind) and too scary, we drive back the 6 miles into the site to return sleepover at a gas station. But what undoubtedly has the advantage early in the morning we have the whole facility to ourselves. First, we need to walk 20 minutes a narrow path (always the steep terraces of us) to go to first to the building remains.
Since it has rained here a few days ago for the first time, the cacti bloom at the roadside.
Again we processed for the Incas, so typical design with the stones clearly visible and the trapezoidal niches.
I can see the abyss bear with me no more and Bernd must be alone on to the sun temple, there is where the sun is tied, high up on the mountain.
There is an elevated park. We take Burro there and can see the ruins of a different light. Here are the ways not quite so close to the steep slope and we go around a little in the Appendix to the cemetery. Here again plundered tombs can be seen in the mountain walls.
then we are ready to get to the place at once on flat ground under his feet. The Peruvian favorite food (Cuy) times in a luxurious house.
There is not a trading day today, just a few streets with souvenir stalls provided full and we see this beautifully-made drainage channel with the snake's head.
continues through the sacred valley past the villages Coya, Calca, Urubamba Yucay and finally . Here we see a plethora of indigenous, who are about to provide the equipment for hikers on the Camino Inca together. 500 people now go each day for four days after Machu Picchu. What the trail almost can not cope and, although there are waiting periods of up to three months, opens the stream of hikers from not. We will refrain from Machu Picchu. It was two years ago, just beautiful there, and that can not be repeated. In addition to the time such masses of tourists are there that the first have already turned away in horror. If this continues, it is still on the mountain to collapse. A short piece about a bumpy paved road and we are in Ollanta, Ollantaytambo with the sanctuary. Sorry, we do not come to that we selected for our overnight parking. For some reason the access is completely blocked by buses. There is nothing forward or backward. Our Alternative that is Ollantaytambo Lodge unfortunately, on the parallel street (better meadow). We would have to back 200 feet, this is not because of the accumulated vehicles but possible. The police are trying as best we can just help, but whenever one is reversing comes again, and then guarantee a squeezed into the gaps. But at some point it's done and we can turn into the narrow path to the lodge. We are glad to be out of the chaos, though the lodge takes an outrageous price for the location. Then we walk on the road to ruin. Again, we wonder again about the large number of tourists. Like ants we climb around in the system. Some who are not accustomed to the altitude, already do a limp after the first stage. The tour guides but they drive on relentlessly. We can only shake their heads and are happy to keep our own pace.
From halfway up we have a good view of the head of the Incas (who want to have the messenger Wiracochan ) on the opposite hillside, with the areas near warehouses. We are already dizzy from the look, let alone that we here in earlier times would have to carry loads. Somehow the Incas must have had a chamois-Gen.
Finally we are on top of the Sun Shrine. We learn that the stones from one of the oldest cultures of the Tiwanaku culture, has long been created before the Inca period are.
Back down we go back into the plant and see the so-called Baño de la Ñusta , the bathroom of the elected women. For women chose the water was pretty cold. I would complain because the boss.
On the way back to the camper, we see the reason for the chaos in the city. The through road is a building site and therefore closed to traffic. The coach park, therefore, where they just find a gap and then is simply nothing more. We take Silke and Stefan (a few weeks ago to know in Huanchaco learned) again and see us together on the terrace of a café watching life on the road, which then reached its climax when the police opened the route for a short time to drain to the pent-up traffic. Resulting in an unprecedented turmoil. Well only that burro stands before this section.
the next morning at 6:00 clock noise in the yard. The first hikers set out on to Machu Picchu and we made our way towards Maras . Just before the site goes away on a dirt road 8 kilometers lying salt terraces of Pichingote . These terraces have been created by the Incas and still used the same methods for salt production.
We drive back the 8 miles and reach the place Maras . Here we have to struggle through the town. The recording was made between the church and houses.
Back on dusty, narrow road, we reach Moray . The Incas had here an agricultural experimental center. out in terraces on different levels, they tested the seed to find out what grows best in what amount. What lends itself to that? Of course, the Peruvian government here has also an agricultural college.
Unfortunately, we have again by Maras. Just as well, which is now not a Sunday, there is namely the market and there would be here at all to get through everything. We pass the Laguna Huaypo and make a short stop at the viewpoint to ruin Machoqolca and see how paragliders make themselves the jump into the Urubamba Valley done. Ruins we have seen enough, we express ourselves before the rise of Machoqolca.
After a few more kilometers we reach the romantic site Chinchero where steep steps lead to the main square.
The small church was again built on the Inca system. There are only a few walls with trapezoidal niches of the former palace of the Inca Tupac Yupanki seen. But the market is in front but more colorful.
on a woven rug, I'll just drop everything and he does not connect and a pair Tonstiere the way to the camper.
Otherwise there would be ever so what you could buy some here. If you only moan Bernd would not so loud. He turns his empty pants pockets inside out and even the market women have to laugh.
The old woman with her spindle, it has done to him then but still.
now keeps us anything. About Cachimayo and Poroy we drive back to Cusco . Unfortunately we have to get through the whole city to back out at the other end. Only after the places San Sebastian and San Jeronimo we scramble out of the can and left to go on. On the ruins of Pikillacta we will make a short stop. Less to visit the facility, we shall no longer simply in the mood for ruins, to finally take a break.
then we feel as fit to lay even a good part of the way back. We drive through the beautiful valley Vilcanota to Urcos . Here we were two years ago, held for hours because of a strike. Today, nothing to remember from the then aggressive attitude of the inhabitants. Continue through the small villages we reach the place Combapata . In Hostal Progreso we find a place for the Burro Night. The next morning we
have a special trip out. We hire us for the next few hours for a taxi. Before we start, we need only to "service station", because the taxi driver once again he has no money for gasoline. Gasoline is the way contraband from Bolivia.
It's about the places with the same Tungasuca lagoon to Yanaoca . From here, the asphalt ends and it goes on to potholes. But at least compensate us the beautiful scenery.
Only occasionally we see farmsteads. Alpacas and llamas are here clearly in the majority.
After 2 hours of driving we reached our destination. In the village we come to Quehue Queswachoca , one of the last intact Inca suspension bridges over the River Apurimac . It is made from plant fibers and is renewed every two years.
must we descend 150m on steps to get to the bridge. But we have no confidence in them. We save the crossing (which we are only for wimps).
Our taxi driver takes us back to Combapata . Where does not stop us and it's still early in the afternoon on to the ruins of Raqchi . Guide was clear that these ruins are rarely visited. When we see the amount of coaches that are here, we want to know what time it is well attended. First we make our way to the little church . Once again, the system built from the stones, but this time what caused minimal damage, because the site is really huge.
She is the creator god Viracocha dedicated and know to be a unique feature of this wall. In addition, there are numerous towers and buildings of lava rock. Esotherikgruppen with shaman cluster around the water holy, but lost because of the size in here at all.
A Campesino undermines nor with the same tools as the Inca his field, which is connected directly to the plant.
Even an artificial lake, the floor is paved with lava rock, water supply had been created here at that time.
We go a little further and see the vibrant city Sicuani a place to stay in the open hall of a gas station. The next day we climb slowly into the air. In the fields, back to work a lot of children. Even from afar, we see the clouds of steam Aguas Calientes (even we do not know in how many places with the name we were already). This time, the spa attracts us do not wash it is used by locals for bathing and washing. After 40 kilometers we reached the pass of La Raya to 4338 meters. Here is the watershed between the Atlantic and Pacific. Nearby is the source of the Río Santa Rosa who becomes the Río Ayaviri , in the Lake Titicaca flows and support from us now. We are now on the Altiplano and constantly at an altitude 3500-4000 meters. At kilometer in 1183, we discover in the distance a sensation. A Puya Raimondi . It is nearly extinct and needs 100 years to flower to die then. We let caution be careful to park on the roadside and Burro march across country to us to see up close. This plant is an incredible 10 meters high and we were very lucky to get any face.
The important trade center, according to travel guide Ayaviri consists only of miserable Adobe hats, and we see no reason for a visit. Our goal is Pucara. From this culture, we know very little, only that it is older than the Incas. In the village itself no indication of the plant. In search of the anthropological museum, we first arrive in the wrong. It is a small private museum of an artist and at the entrance, we see the torso of a cow who has formerly served as a granary. That was really not what we wanted, but even a few clay pots are still there and the items from his grandfather, who was a bullfighter. Patiently, we can lead us and then make that we come to the right museum.
That was no revelation. No leadership, no explanation, but taking photographs. Now we still have a photo of a stone figure, but what they represent? Who knows, who knows?
But at least be at the excavation site, the leaders around like everywhere? Far from it, no one far and wide and we were here and are just as smart as before. The reading material does not help really.
On the other track we see a terrible accident. A tour bus and a truck, both totally smashed. Would not you know times are so with the driving shaft of the driver. Then finally we have reached Juliaca. An extremely lively city and we once again through the middle. Motorists, buses, pedestrians, motor taxis, cyclists do all what they want and everyone is taking part. There are no rules. Who is faster is right.
are few kilometers from the town again in a different world. Quiet and comfortable we can follow to the grave towers of Sillustani . We see beautiful farms and flowering cacti in the path.
make it quick we are to cope with the increase of the towers. Even from a distance can be seen that there will be a storm today. The sight alone is fantastic.
Sillustani was an important center of Colla culture. died a man of importance, were 20 - burned 30 llamas, killed women and children and then walled in with other people living in the grave towers. Those were rough manners then. The Incas have then taken over the facility and build additional towers grave.
Then we could only run yet. The storm with wind and rain came up to us. The dog with his thick fur was used to. But enjoyed an extra ration of food from our stocks.
we were allowed to sleep at the museum. The museum guard made for ourselves and gave us a tour even more power for the camper. When we complained to us about the rain, he had no sympathy for it. It is the first, expected by all the rain and we are very lucky to be allowed to experience this. The next morning
was ice cold. Whole 9 degrees in the camper. Since first have the heater fired up before even my nose out looked under the covers. But soon the sun popped back from the sky and the warm clothes we could take off again. Just before the city of Puno of Lake Titicaca came into view. Puno had a ring road and so we came faster than expected through the city. Since we already have a cruise on the lake and visit the floating islands of the Uru had made two years ago, it took us in Puno unstoppable. Much longer accompanies us to the highest navigable lake in the world come to when we Pomata the junction for Desaguadero . We will leave there and go to Peru Bolivia .
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