In Chiclayo we make a short shopping stop and go directly to the beach town Pimentel where we return to the Katuwira Lodge have a good place for the night. The sea and the winds are rough, but we see a moto taxi (pretentious word for this companion) out with reed boats on the roof and actually paddle the fishermen crazy with these things on the sea. We are still invited to a campfire and toast, but we are ready after the long trip that we reject with thanks, Bernd and drink coca tea with a more polite and then it was for us.
Because some roads impassable for our vehicle, we need some time to go back and forth. That is always back to the mountains and then the sea. Rather we would have been the trails, but we're always advised against it at all to try. The "normal" roads are already adventurous enough. For example, we were promised a good road to Cajamarca, but the Peruvian government has decided to bring us on this tour to despair. In Peru, roads are built, good for Peru, good for the company and the community Wirtgen Windhagen, but to tear out hair for us. It was actually going quite pleasing, in three hours, the 170 kilometers to the Panam Guadalupe and then managed to continue in the valley of the Río Jequetepeque to Templadera . For the remaining 120 miles to Cajamarca, we then needed six hours. We almost had to turn back attempts. Time and again there were long delays at construction sites, detours through tiny places with us for daring maneuvers through narrow streets and parked cars over wild (fold mirror there was the slightest). However, the worst ever, the lines with the newly-open sections. Here we bumbled through and then came only as a building site vehicles and wanted to force a drive to reverse. And by the way we climbed from sea level to 3,050 meters. Time and again we are aligned, Woe Cajamarca if this effort is not worth it!
Then, finally, was
Cajamarca, Atahualpa the fate of the city before us. First, a descent to 2,700 feet. What was that? We heard a noise on WoWo unknown to us, Burro snorted and hissed as he had at once an asthma attack. He was driving but still normal and Bernd tried to calm myself with Lapalie: Too much dirt, it is the truck behind us, etc. The chosen by us Hacienda San Vicente was then miserable way back through the center, the closest mountain to climb streets. Once so close, we got stuck and had to turn back to get out of the trap. In such situations, I wish we had a lever and Burro could reduce by half. The amount was then the last kilometer. Dirt road, just as wide as the camper, in some places broken off and a steep grade with us. As we stood in the yard, we both had the sweat on their foreheads are. This was the hostel just beautiful and we were very welcome. We knew at that moment regardless of what was Burro, we indulged in a nice dinner and then sleep only.
saw the next morning the world will be looking better. We had breakfast overlooking the city and delayed the decision beyond what should we do now, workshop or sightseeing.
But it was again Friday and so we took the decision out of hand, otherwise we get nothing done all weekend at Burro. So back down the mountain, out of the center to the industrial area for IVECO dealer. When the hood was opened, the joy was great. Yes where was the air filter, where is the corresponding bracket? All gone, lost on a shaker, sacrificed for the progress of Peru. Going to do now was expensive. is the air filter is not here, Bernard still had the old one, which was already changed once stored, it had to hold serve again, he is better than no air filter. The holder has to be manufactured. You order on to a subcontractor, but it lasts. To spend We in 1 ½ days of the workshop. Meanwhile, we have seen more workshops from the inside than in the previous two tours together.
is Saturday morning around 10:00 clock they are still not ready and we are tired. We consult with the security service, pay the repair and take a taxi into town, because at least we want the Cuarto del Rescate, see the so-called ransom room before it closed at 12.00 clock for the rest of the weekend. Cuarto del Rescate in was Atahualpa, the 13th Inca ruler, in 1532, eight months from Pizarro imprisoned until the highest ransom was paid to the history. Two rooms full of Gold and silver works of art. into ingots melted down, so it could be removed better, purer material worth 85 million euros, of priceless artistic value. When they had bagged all the gold, Pizarro had Atahualpa strangled in the Plaza de Armas. Thus, the Inca empire was effectively extinguished, with the stones of the Inca palaces were built churches. The Cuarto del Rescate is the last remnant of the Inca buildings in Cajamarca.
The stone walls fit together exactly and do not require mortar. They even resist earthquakes.
Now there are a lot of churches in Cajamarca. The most beautiful Complex is the Iglesia Belén , with associated former hospitals for men and women. He is a good example of the beautiful indigenous carvings.
photograph inside was prohibited and there are only a quick look at the dome with their little angel.
The cathedral from the outside is well worth seeing. It is striking in all churches of Cajamarca missing bell tower. Because the English viceroy raised taxes on all finished churches, the churches in Cajamarca were just never finished.
Here we see the Plaza de Armas, was strangled at the Atahualpa.
But there is still much more to see history-even in the vicinity of Cajamarca. So we gathered in the afternoon Burro from the workshop and drove the 5 miles to Los Baños del Inca . There, we parked next to the Complejo Turístico . let them in did not want, but the parking is close by in the night, very quiet and safe. We had no other choice than to rely on it. We negotiated with a taxi driver and left us on dirt roads for two hours through the countryside . Go On the way we were still a part of the way with indigenous, but we were allowed to take a picture. She spoke only Quechua and the way the taxi driver had to interpret. The people here put incredible distances on foot and in the mountains.
Our destination was the Ventanillas (small window) de Combaya . You are just 25 km from Cajamarca, but because of geographical isolation and difficult track uncrowded and developed with tourists. Even some of the taxi drivers refused to drive, out of sheer fear for their cars.
is suggested that in the niches dead were buried 1,400 years ago. They are attributed to the Cajamarca culture. However, they are one and all looted.
The scenery was sometimes very harsh, but fascinating. Up to the highest levels yet led paths and over small farms were to be seen on the hillside.
On the way back we made stops at the Ventanillas de Otuzco . Their meanings are the same as it Combaya. Here, however, here is booming tourism. You have to pay an entrance fee and there are a lot of souvenir stands. However, the plant is much smaller.
We could sell us the taxi driver in Cajamarca, an appointment made for tomorrow and even from visiting the Heladeria Holandia. According to guide the best ice cream shop in the north of Peru. In fact, the owner of a Dutchman. Once as a development worker to Cajamarca come and stayed here because of love. The ice was really excellent.
Before we drove into the countryside on Sunday, we visited early in the morning Baño del Inca. Here comes 76 ° hot water from the earth and even the Incas knew the healing power to estimate the water. Despite the early hour (6.45 Clock) were already a Lot of people at the checkout. This historic facility is well maintained and nice to see from afar the rising vapors.
has been bathed in this tub Atahualpa and here he first met Pizarro. As Atahualpa, however, considered unassailable, Pizarro was able to arrest him with 170 men, although Atahualpa had 50 000 soldiers in the city.
Another view of the beautiful whole plant and Burro in the background.
We had a communication problem, and the wrong Tickets purchased, actually we wanted Piscina (swimming pool) and bought Baño (Bath). At first glance, has changed here since Atahualpa's not much time. Nevertheless, a kind of giant bathtub with hot water for ourselves, which we could not miss. We splashed through the skin was wrinkled. After over a month without a bath is pure pleasure.
came after the pleasure of the culture. Promptly at 10:00 clock, the taxi driver was there and went from there to the sanctuary Cumbemayo . After about an hour we had arrived there, we took a guide and off we went on the tour. Our taxi driver went to the same, he was but to his shame confessing never been there. First, we reached El Santuario , the sacred rock. The mouth is a cave with 3.30 meters in diameter. May have been buried here in a ruler. On the walls there are petroglyphs.
through a narrow tunnel through rock to get behind the rocks.
here is watch the Frailones (forest monk, or stone forest) in the background.
washed at a water hole, a Indígena their laundry.
Cacti
The environment is dry and even grow on the stones. This one they call brother cactus. We would not say mother-chair.
Another sensation of the area is carved in stone channel. He is nine miles long and is attributed to the Cajamarca-Chavin culture, dating from the period 1500-1200 BC. It is a masterpiece with a hydraulic gradient of 1.5% and bends down in some places to reduce the flow rate.
The indigenous the environment are very good tourists zulocken the money from his pocket. How is this woman sitting with her hand spindle only because of the photos and the associated small fee there.
Another view of the sacred plant, and then the trail is managed and 1 ½ hours passed in a flash.
Even our taxi driver was thrilled and can now go in the future not only tourists, but also immediately join the guide in one. We make our way back from a hill and we have a beautiful view of the Cerro Santa Apolonia .
There we left the taxi and make us walk on the way back to town. We first visit to the top of the hill the Silla del Inca (throne of the Inca). From here, let Atahualpa homage of his people. The entire hill was a pre-Inca temple, which served the cult of the dead. Appropriately, was built just below the Silla is a chapel and the many steps lead directly into the city and one is in a short time at the Plaza of Armas. It is so easy to destroy the beliefs of indigenous people and close use for its own purposes.
After we were so busy now, we'd have deserved a reward. By late afternoon, back in Baños del Inca, we treated ourselves to have a nice massage. That has then fallen so much that we very early the next morning in the hot tub splashing, then had a massage and watched a strengthening of the common return path. After all, it was necessary to drive all the way back to the sea. We had more luck than the journey out. Although the road was just as modest, but at least there was no major delays. So we were a little faster and could have up Trujillo and then continue to Huanchaco . While it was already dark when we finally got on Garden Hotel Huanchaco arrived, but the place was well known to us and we knew we could get in there. Much to our delight, we met for the first time on the current travel camper tourists, Edith and Bruno from Lichtenstein. They came from the south and are already 9 months on the road and provides us with a lot of tips for Bolivia. We stayed a day longer than planned to finally make it really clean again after all the dust roads and washing clothes to leave, but for us to share with Edith and Bruno. Even in the dark still Silke and Stefan came from Untertürkheim, with its rover on the court. That was already a real mass buoyancy. Look, we had nothing here, we know this all before from the previous trip. Then again
is a pure driving day announced. Thanks to a new GPS program, we will easily find out from the city of Trujillo. Even at construction sites and detours Garmin looks our way. We are enthusiastic full. We can Chimbote Casma and Paramonga behind us. Boring coastal desert alternates with asparagus and endless sugar cane fields. Then again, only to chicken coops chicken coops in the desert sand. Finally we get behind Supe in Caleta Vidal our overnight stay at the Hotel Bello Horizonte. It is still the same administrator because, like almost a year ago. He greeted us most cordially and even me with "hola Jutta. Because I'm flat, he even has a photo of us on his mobile phone.
a little disappointed he was that we were only to stay there and wanted to stay any longer. But we have here last year and now want even scoured all high in the Andes to Chavin de Huantar. Three kilometers Pativilca we leave the Panam and branch off to the east in the valley of the Rio Fortaleza . On the riverbank there is plenty of sugar cane, corn and bell pepper fields. We go through Chasquitambo (Once a station of the famous relay runners of the Incas). So slowly, it reproduces fruit and eucalyptus trees. On never-ending switchbacks we wind our higher and higher in a magnificent mountain world. After 130 km we have reached the pass in Conococha (4,100 meters) with the same Laguna. The Laguna is the source of the Rio Santa . At Laguna we see a huge amount of water birds. In English they are called Cauguén Guayata (in German ... ....? No idea).
Sichler Even with the beautiful name Ibis Morito feel at this level obviously good.
The route now takes us into the valley of Huaylas , always on the Río Santo along. Extend east to the snow and the Eisgipfel Cordillera Blanca , west of the snow-free mountains of Cordillera Negra .
Catac When we turn from the main direction of Huaraz and from the relatively tolerable road.
The landscape becomes more beautiful and more people are getting poorer. We can hardly believe that people live in these farms. So lonely and left this lie in the highest peaks and steepest of the slopes.
children come back begging on the street running as soon as they see only one from a distance. We have therefore taken a lot of candy on hand. For this, then looked gratefully into the picture.
enthusiasm we make a stop at Laguna Querococha (3980 m) in the backdrop of the Nevada Yanamarey (5237 m) mirrors.
At last we reach the Abra Kahuish with its 4516 meters height and the same 480 meter long tunnel.
Now we have again a 35 km-long descent into the valley of the Río Mosna . Also on this page, the children beg for money or candy.
Then finally we have reached in the late afternoon Chavín . Now we are on to the ruins of Chavin de Huantar . In 1945 the ruins were a powerful mudslide partially destroyed, and since 1985, the UNESCO World Heritage site. A guide was at hand and start the tour could. The ruins of a temple complex in the form castle is considered the oldest stone building in Peru and is in its Beginnings to 1000 BC. dated. Here we see the ceremonial place in the background and the palace . The Spaniards had, as usual, a church from the stones of the sanctuary built on the system. The landslide has swept the church and buried the remains among themselves. 6 meter ground had to be removed, then the remains came to the surface, the church was destroyed forever. Our guide told us that obviously delighted.
These "banks" were allowed to sit the nobles at the ceremonies. The stones are part of a piece and up to 9 feet long.
The outer walls are inclined by 7 ° and withstand even earthquakes. According to our guide this Inka construction have taken over by the Chavin and then refined.
An labyrinth of underground passages, which are all connected and equipped with a sophisticated ventilation one arrives at El Lanzon God. He should be the only God, who is still in its original place. It is always scary, even though now a little electric light El Lanzon enlightened. One can well imagine how he has affected the people of his time must who were at the ceremonies on drugs and had no lighting. to
Glad to be back at daylight, we could visit on an outer wall of another Cabezas clavas (nail heads). The other 50 pieces are distributed to various museums and other places. Again, there are different interpretations. According to guide it, the heads of human sacrifices or captured enemies. Our guide was contrary to the energetic. The faces have some snakes in the mouths, noses or tamponade rolled his eyes. All this suggests drug intoxication and visions. Finally, here are steles with shamans and the see hallucinogenic San Pedro cactus. The use of peyote and coca was common among the shamans and the great mass was treated at the ceremonies, with plenty of coca and chicha (corn beer). In addition, each head had a stone roof to protect against sun and rain, so good people are supposed to deal with enemies. Whatever it was, our guide managed to bring tension in his stories.
It was almost dark when we finished our visit was. Only thing missing was a place for the night. The police sent us to the Plaza in the city, there it was quiet and safe. At night they would keep an eye on us. All well and good, but getting there was not easy. Burro here could not be two inches wider. The Hostal Inka at the Plaza, we were not so lucky, it missed the goal, even in the folded mirrors, 5 cm in order to come through. So we went really easily stopped at the plaza. Quite nervous we were at it, with so much poverty around us around. However, the police has kept its word and every now and then stopping by.
the early morning we started again on the road. But first it was the bad road to go back to Catac . On the route up to the Abra we saw again and again secured bad galleries. Here, the population scrapes Coal from the mountain. Almost the whole mountain is so undermined wait times when the mountain and thus slips off the road.
From Catac we talked now Huaraz direction. Unfortunately, the road was not much better. While still asphalt, or rather what was left of it between the fire extinguishers. We drove around the city with its 160,000 inhabitants, as best I could and ended up in Caraz . Other travelers we had the Hostal Chamanna , with German owners, recommended as a place for the night. Unfortunately there was no one to take, but we could see already that we would possibly fit through the gate. Sometimes it's a cross with such a large camper here in South America. So we hired from Burro at a gas station and took us a taxi for another highlight of our trip, the Cañon del Pato . Bernd originally planned by the Burro Canyon to ride. Well just that we have our mind. 22 km behind Caraz the valley ever closer, until finally, in Cañon del Pato separated the two Kordillierenzüge only through the raging Río Santa.
The Saumpiste uses the former route of the disused railway and winds through 35 tunnels that were blasted into the raw rock. The vertical cliffs rise sky-high on one side and fall on the other side into bottomless pits. It was an experience, though not one of those you have each day need. Our young taxi driver drove like on a rally. Our subtle hints have and continue to slow at some have been acknowledged with a nod changed, but nothing on driving style. However, we prefer
sat in a taxi with a burro through the narrow tunnel curves, not to think of any oncoming traffic.
Since we have a suitable place for the night was missing, we drove back towards Huaraz until after Monterrey and its thermal baths. As expected, we were allowed to remain there. So we came again to enjoy a bath. Unfortunately, even in a flat tire. The second of the trip. Well, it only one in Huaraz Llantería and therefore gave immediate help for us. This time it was a nail the culprit. We started the long way back to shore. In the background the snow-capped mountains.
At the summit in Conococha we bought a cheese and a golden lamb that would be almost driven us.
We said goodbye to the mountains and drove from our back to 4,000 meters above sea level and thus in coastal desert.
A special "joy" was given to us at the gas station in Patavilca . Bernd paid with two 100 Soles bills. The attendant took the money and left. After a little while, he came back, Bernd gave the money to pay and sent him to his colleagues. The colleague refused to accept a 100 Soles certificate on the grounds that it was counterfeit. Since we bill from an ATM had, indeed, only the first gas station attendant have the notes exchanged. We can prove this is not natural. Despite some lament, blaming the gas station attendant threatened with the police so we were now sitting on the wrong note. What we learn from this: Never go a gas station with the money alone to fund, stay at the always beautiful man So after two Americas, there are always new surprises. We could not spoil the day but because of 100 Soles (25 €). We had reached the Panam again. From here it is removed towards Lima good and we were at our destination at about 16:00 clock, the National Park Lomas de Lachay . There
middle of the desert here a unique ecosystem. In the months August to December, the desert floor into a thriving oasis paradise.
There are more than 70 plant species that come alive solely by the Garúa (condensation) of the coastal fog to life.
We spent an absolutely quiet and dark night in the park. So quiet we will probably not have long. We conquer, but to start our second attempt Lima. We were indeed on the last year failed miserably, we want to know again. Let's see if we can find a safe place this time in Lima, where we have a couple of days may remain.
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