Next we're on the road of the volcanoes. Our eyes do not know now where to look first, so beautiful is the landscape. Difficult it is to take it all in a picture.
Unfortunately, we have a lot of road construction sites and in the small hamlet Saraguro we need to surprise on the Panamericana and down through the narrow village. We are hoping to catch a glimpse of the Saraguros can be known for their special costumes. They are originally from the region of Lake Titicaca, and were brought here by the Incas. Therefore, they differ in their clothing entirely from the other inhabitants of the area. However, the place looks deserted. Shortly after, we know why we stand still, and for over an hour. First, we still assume that it is because of the construction site. At some point I get out the camper and ask: A Paro (strike). Strident calls strikers slogans and shoot off fireworks. Also burn as always in such situations tires on the road. Just in time clock at 12.00, the strike is over. All go to lunch and we can go further.
Our schedule is once again then, and we are behind schedule in Cuenca . At the Cabañas Yannuncay we are again warmly welcomed by Humberto. Although Cuenca is a beautiful city, but we already know too well. So we decided the next morning to tread new ground at last and refrain from further stay. Behind Loja we leave and drive towards the Panamerican Podocarpus National Park to Vilcabamba. at the Hosteria Izhcayluma with its German owners, we find a place to stay with a beautiful view of Vilcabamba and the surrounding area. The village itself was somewhat disappointing, this is just really nice for hiking.
Not only the sight of Amarilis
but the one the entire system can lead us 2 nights stay and along the way still enjoy a wonderful massage.
we can also use the urgency in what belongs to us now. Another 20 kilometers of asphalt and dann150 kilometers of slopes of the worst kind
However, Peter has assured us that the hotel owner on several occasions that we can navigate without four-wheel drive. But only if it does not rain. Now comes the full program. First, dirt track at its best, between our teeth, it grinds it after a few kilometers, as well as helps no masking the ventilation systems. Then again, a longer stop, the road is replaced. Stunned, we look at the track that we, after a ¾ hour wait to ride. But somehow we make it.
Then it starts to our further edification to rain yet. Exactly what we actually do not need anymore. We are after all on the road and have to cope Lehmpiste four passes, all of which are over 3,400 meters high. Bernd comforts me with the cool award: At least it no longer dusty. Sometimes I could kill the driver. And by the way we pass again and again small or large creek bed. The towns along the way such as Valladolid, Palanda and Zumba are ugly and downright pathetic.
At least the scenery is beautiful, even if we have sheer concentration on the lane barely an eye for it.
many as seven hours we have used for the 170 miles and come and fix all that apply La Balsa , the border crossing to Peru. Now we still stands before a litmus test. What the Ecuadorians do with our temporary importation of Burro? First, turn or twist the letter, they ask for the prescribed form. We ask that the border officials several times but use the letter to read. Finally he reads through it and then fetch a colleague who reads it too and then comes to the conclusion that everything is in order. We get the stamp and signature on our copy and are released from Ecuador. Phew, we made it!
few yards further on is a bridge over the border river Río Blanco. The is not long finished, because after the border war between Peru and Ecuador was only a personal transition and you had to translate with a raft. The bridge and the border post are not marked on any map. The customs officials have a lunch break and clock to 15:00, the dear soul rest. Since we are the only ones, however, who do over here, is of the form instead of right after the war without any problems. While Bernd is working with inspectors in the camper, I still seek stamp of the police. The friendly policeman have seen the stamped forms without ever to Bernd. He is more interested in the question of why we may have no children. This is a long dispute, and I decide to have in the future, three children and five grandchildren. Let's see whether we will be faster. At last, all obstacles are removed, we entered Peru and the tax collector can sleep on.
Those who think that would from now on Better road that is subject to a fatal error. On the contrary, in terms of slope with holes and steep stream crossings can beat the Ecuadoreans, Peruvians still. So we give up the plan to be driving to San Ignacio and still are very pleased to discover after a few kilometers Hosteria Los Aurelius. Where can we stay and enjoy the extremely quiet environment. Besides cows, mules, and few people will be held here from nothing. The next morning, another 110 km of pistes are on the program. We pass Namballe and San Ignacio. from here should be the road in good condition, but it must have been in another life. After a good four hours We'll watch a bulge next to the course and look forward to a lunch break. As soon as we opened the window and set the table, from which nothing emerges, an armed man, looking through the window. Startled, we had nearly fallen out of the cutlery by hand. But he is friendly and asks only whether we are tired. We should read not disturb him. Shortly afterwards presented with a second man and both were raised pointedly in front of our camper. I will be too much and I wonder if we have to fear anything. No we have not. Here, poor people are traveling bandits. However, they're here and watch over us now, until we are finished with our break. When we offer them something to eat, they attack pleased to. So we provide our "protector" (on their shirts as the fighter for his country) with pasta, tomato sauce, salad, coffee and mineral water. Even to a photo they are ready yet. If we had seen in Colombia, we would not have been surprised. However, in Peru that is absolutely new for us.
was four miles later, then finally reached the paved road and we enjoyed the peace in the camper. No more clatter and commotion, our ears could finally relax a bit from the noise of the last days. We passed the city of Jaen and then 50 more miles in Bagua Grande came from. First, we wondered just about all the trucks that stood here in the middle of the road. Bernd overtook everyone and then we watched aghast on a sign. Due to construction work, the road from 6.00 am to 18.00 clock clock locked at night.
There remains nothing for us, then another, as we wait to fit into the side road between buses and. The truck driver took it left and used the time for a nap, it would indeed be a long night for them.
broke Then at 17:30 of the clock War. The engines were started and all crowded at the barriers. Road signs, there was no more. Everyone hooted, tailgated and went as far forward as it only just possible (or rather not possible) was. Who here had lost the brakes. The police had no Gewallt more about the crowd. At exactly 18.00 clock was the lock is released and then went off the Geras. Mind you um18.00 Clock it is dark. Three-lane drive in only two tracks perfectly normal. Overtaking despite oncoming traffic and normal. The cars were trying at all costs to the trucks to come by and even though the road was unlit yes site and only door, temporary bridges, etc. was. 65 km journey to hell and we in the middle. There were a few town links with people and animals on the road. This was just every man for himself. After two hours, Pedro Ruiz and reached the end of the site. As if to mock it was a toll road and we had to also pay fees. Shortly after, we saw a gas station open 24 hours has, then only the bed down and immediately we fell asleep.
was the next morning, the first peak in Peru on the program, Kuélap a fortress of the Chachapoyas, next to Machu Picchu, the second outstanding archaeological site in Peru, while almost unknown. shrink because of the laborious arrival Many of the visit and return during the rainy season the place is slipping due to the access road can not be achieved fast. That was the reason why we set such a tight time frame, the rainy season starts here in October. So first we had to keep the direction of Chachapoyas UM12 kilometers from the city to leave the asphalt road and runway 30 miles to Tingo to drive. From now on the wall narrow path up the mountain and it had to be overcome to 1,700 meters in altitude up to 3,000 meters, as Kuelap was built on the highest mountain in the area. Of course, the trail was quite muddy as it had rained during the night. Yawning chasms are doing on. 38 km and 2 hours later we had the parking lot of the plant a nice view of some of the same distance traveled.
We were proud to have made it to us and to finally see the fortress from the 12th century to the Chachapoyas. The Chachapoyas (cloud warriors) were been defeated by the Incas and oppressed, but they have always done, and despite the harshest penalties resistance.
We took a leader named Leya had to and from the parking lot for half an hour walk up the hill going to go to one of the three inputs. The inputs are held so that they could be sustained with only a few men. The Spaniards Kuélap have discovered neither, let alone ever conquered.
First, we found a tiny bird's nest. Leya told us that this is the nest of a hummingbird.
The plant is only in the restoration and there are many different trees grow on the remains. Partially overgrown with bromeliads, some with small flowers provided, in which countless buzzing bees.
Ley removed a stone from the walls and we were able to discover bones of people. The walls should be full of it.
were Good to see the ornaments in a zig-zag patterns that represent the highest deity of the Chachapoyas, Machacuey (the snake). Later we have heard a different interpretation. Archaeologists are not yet any consensus.
A truncated cone of 12 meters diameter is in the book as El Tintero known. Leya for it is the Templo Mayor, the place of sacrifice. The Chachapoyas, in contrast to the Incas knew no human sacrifices, only animals, coca and fruits were offered to the gods.
are here to see the remains of the dwellings in the background the house with the roof is a reconstruction. The dwellings are small stalls which were already discovered in the Guinea Pig (Cuy) were held.
Our very kind and friendly Leya parting photo. Here one can again see very well how dwarfed the indigenous population is, in my just 158 centimeters.
once again by one of the inputs and outputs.
Different stones were decorated with reliefs and the snake could not be missing.
A farewell look at the 1.5 km long and some 20 meters high wall. Three hours had gone by very quickly.
Because the sky had closed and we further rain feared, we went against our plan (we wanted to stay up here in the parking lot) effect on the way back. But not to Chachapoyas, but even a little further in the valley to Yerbabuena. Leya had raved to us by the local Sunday market and there is Sunday morning, we wanted not to be missed.
at once gave our tire pressure alarm device. The inner dual tires lost air. Just to Yerbabuena surprise we could and to help us there in the Llantería (so-called tire shop). As always, they had no suitable tool, but could help out Bernard. A sharp stone was exposed as an offender and the vulcanized tire, then Everything was back on track.
For simplicity, we stayed right across from the Llantería for the night stand. Only now we came to this place as a closer look. Almost every second house was empty and looked ready for demolition. Here, the largest market place nearby? Somehow we came before us fails to stay at. The marketplace was still barren. equipped only with a few stalls and as completely out of clay, very unhygienic. The few people stared at us like aliens. But now we were once here and wanted to see how the morning goes on. At night we could hardly sleep because permanent any trucks drove past. At about 6:30
morning so we could clock only rub their eyes. Overnight, everything here has been filled, and from near and far have been offered goods. How Leya told us that people have almost no cash. The goods are mostly traded.
There was a large animal's own market.
There was also a terrific scramble. The through road for vehicles was only passable at a walking pace.
the roadside were pigs, Chickens and ducks on sale. was
Also, sheep have to offer and so many zuschleppen had a heavy bag home. So Leya had not promised us too much. Such an original and colorful market, we had never seen until today. Tourists, there was no way, except us.
After we stocked up on the market with all sorts of fruit and vegetables we made our way to the capital of the department of Amazonas, Chachapoyas with just 18,000 inhabitants. What a sight, a clay road leading into the city. Many houses were made of adobe (mud bricks ungebannte) and offered a very sad picture. Then again, paved streets and a beautiful main square with surrounding buildings in colonial style. Since we could find no place in a hotel, the driveways were too low for us we had to once again take a parking lot preferences. However, since we were supplied with electricity and water, and a private key for the gate well. Soon we were on our way to visit the place. Since we were through in half an hour. We used the remaining time to organize ourselves for the next day a tour.
We got a car, a driver and a guide to our destination, the sarcophagus of Karajia provided. Again, it was over bumpy roads in the mountainous regions of Chachapoyas. After 1 ½ hours of driving time we passed through Luya , the home village of our driver. He drove us to his house because he wanted there to pick up his lunch. So we were treated to hide, I can see an adobe house from inside. He proudly showed us the house located directly next to the kitchen of the guinea pigs. He has so many that he can sell most of it and so has a good extra income. No understanding he brought to the fact that we still have eaten no Cuy. Driver and guide were in agreement, this is the best meat from all over Peru.
The kitchen was not a revelation. Water is available only at certain hours, but at least it was a toilet. All in all, the rooms are dark, as even the base only consists of stamped clay. But this is a house of someone of the work and therefore money, has another house, we have not from the inside, or rather God is not seen you.
Our guide pointed out the first burial on the mountain slopes. The area is full of them, most unknown and unexplored.
But still we were not on Goal. On and on it went on narrow, rocky dirt roads past tiny villages. Thanks to the intercession of the driver to let the two indigenous, but still a little hesitant to shoot.
In Lamud we drove only on foot. Our driver came to his bedroom or lunch and our guide Rainer finally to its use. At the last house in the village register, we had to leave and pay admission. Then we went down the narrow, rocky road for half an hour a slope. Then we had them in mind, the first since 1985, the public and presented themselves for Peru unique attraction, the so-called sarcophagus of Karajia. First we got the guard's face.
After the burial of the servant.
The sarcophagus of the Nobles hid mummies in a squatting position (embryonic posture in anticipation of rebirth). The carved faces of the sarcophagus, and the colors are well preserved. Above them are human skulls. It is believed that this is the skull is about enemies. Probably as a deterrent. Exactly one can assign the sarcophagus has not recall, but them to the stone statues of Easter Island. It is interesting that the statues are so difficult to access themselves. Either from above or from below carry out routes. People have swung with ropes or long Srickleitern over the abyss have to bury their rulers.
impressed heavy make us look at the arduous climb. But we see this trip was worth it.
First, we wanted to book another trip, but it has been repeatedly confirmed to us that we ourselves can get the camper to a further attraction Chachapoyas. Since this was a piece (32 km) on our way back and the city of Chachapoyas We had really nothing to offer, we headed the next day on the way to the third-highest waterfall in the world of Catarata Gocta . Only in 2002, he was by the German Stefan Zieme Dorff, discovered on a steep drop in the Andes to the Amazon basin. Well just that we were in Chachapoyas a rough map, for in any travel guide was the way there described. But wonder of wonders, there were signs of what is really a sensation here in Peru. We were able to narrow door, always penetrate the words of Rainer confidently up to the hamlet Cocachimba . To ensure a safe parking lot we need not worry us. Here the road was over and we were directly from the guardian and Ticket saleswoman greeted with a handshake. Though we first wanted to go without a guide, but what we were finished talking at once. The way there and back takes 5 hours and is sometimes quite difficult. Ilton, a young Indígeno took it upon himself to join us for 20 Soles. Time and again we are given names and medicinal properties of herbs explained by the wayside. We are on the crop rotation on maize, potatoes, peas attention in the fields, have shown us the most diverse and unknown fruit. Right here pineapple plantations are created. A new source of income for the village community. After an hour we were up and down on the first view point and could have a pleasant view of the Waterfall catch.
on rocky, sometimes muddy way it went on up and down. We crossed a suspension bridge and it went uphill. So slowly we thought anxiously at the back. Bernd collapsed, threatening a piece of the slope along the way to slide down. Like a panther Ilton jumped from two feet away on Bernd and grabbed him by the feet. Nothing happened, all right. Then keep going down. On the last Mirardor we had a wonderful view of the waterfall with its two cascades. The first stage is 200 meters and the second 571 meters. A truly impressive sight. 40 minutes we would have now increase even down to get to the bottom of the case and the lagoon. But down is that, either upward. We let reason prevail and Ilton declare that we have seen enough and want to go back. He offers us horses to order, so that we can ride back. But before we get back on horses we would rather go on foot.
Now it is hard. Uphill, the short straight sections can cheer us any more. Time and again we must sit down, Ilton has it not easy with us. But he told us to be happy that he is very grateful, as he says "companion" to be allowed. 14 people from the village make the change. Once a week and even twice if he's lucky it's his turn and comes as some cash. The rest of the week he works in his field where he grows what he needs to eat (corn, potato, peas and cabbage. He has for us all day and we can be as slow as we want. 20 Soles are that just 4.50 €. Unimaginable little and yet the young man is happy with the income.
There we go, a small group of 3 people. We get talking and Oscar says the head of the group of us by name . He has a travel agency in Chachapoys and our camper in the parking lot looked closely. We were not even noticed that on the label we received at the border Bernd's name on it. He laughs that we have given up, but the older woman who is on the two men who rolls her eyes. She walks slowly while we talk for a while, they will probably use the time to follow their step and will not compete with the young men have to. Oscar (pictured right) is of German descent and speaks the language very well. He gives us a few tips for traveling and then we go on. At least we were able to draw so a little air. Ilton is surprised that we were able to converse so well with Oscar. He knows it, but did not think he can speak German.
enjoys a beautiful butterfly along the way of the wanderer heart.
Here we can see that a horse can still find many apple lovers.
completely exhausted after 5 ½ hours we reached our starting point. We are so ready, that we can not even eat anything. So we are probably getting too old for such violence marches. Bernd's knees ache and we long for our bed. But let us first nor the hour until the start of construction in Pedro Ruitz . Go However, we will be staying at the gas station and only start tomorrow morning at 5:30 clock the way back through the site. Then it will probably be light and for us it's a better feeling. The station owner knows us and we still get our old sleeping next to the chickens in the Christmas star.
It was a good thing to wait until morning. Although we also need another two hours until we are passing through the site, but most cars are already through and we have less traffic. Although the few drivers drive as aggressive as it was at night. Now we also see to what depths and how bad bridges we went. Later we still get goose bumps. In Bagua Grande the nightmare is over. It is still so early in the day, we will come to the sea. But that is another story. For now we say goodbye to the sky warriors. There were still a lot to discover. Unfortunately, the tourism here in the first coming and the information is in our reading material is scarce. Despite the many efforts we were but a pleasure to be here.
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